NOW EXPERIENCING:Jane

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 24 Jan 2025

By
Matty Hirsch


The bar and counter at Jane in Sydney

Clever small plates, an all-out Australian drinks list and one of the city’s finest happy hours set this squeezy Surry Hills restaurant and wine bar apart from the pack.

The entrance to Jane in Sydney
Why you goCosy local spots spruiking indie wines and European-ish share plates aren’t hard to come by in inner-city Sydney, but there’s something a bit different – and very endearing – about Jane. Take the all-encompassing, all-Australian approach that chef-owner Tristan Rosier and his partner Rebecca Fanning take with the drinks list, produced entirely on our golden soils. Or the way that homegrown ethos also flows through the menu in the form of native flora and fauna from kangaroo, green ants and spanner crab to anise myrtle, river mint and Davidson’s plum. It all makes for a thoughtful narrative that, together with one of the best happy hours in town, gives you reasons aplenty to keep coming back.
Why you stayJane is named for Tristan’s grandmother, and there’s more than a hint of nostalgia at play in the concept and interiors by celebrated studio Luchetti Krelle. In careless hands, “retro” so often translates as an ironic mishmash of doilies, crochet and Vinnie’s crockery, but here it’s a dashing and decidedly grown-up reimagining of the ’70s – mixing textures, mosaic tiles and a rich colour palette of mustards and maroons. The young and charismatic waitstaff, meanwhile, are just as charming, injecting the space with a spunky attitude that brings this romantic vision of the past firmly into the present.
What drink to order Given the all-Aussie focus, you should probably start with an Australiano, the skilfully balanced and highly sessionable house Spritz built from Okar Aperitivo, bitter citrus and beetroot soda. Should you continue down the cocktail path, you’ll be met with a clutch of ageless classics like the Spicy Marg, Moscow Mule and White Negroni, all re-energised by small-batch spirits and liqueurs. (The Sub-Zero Martini, served at -20 degrees and as dry as all get-out, is a particularly good time.) Bear in mind that Jane calls itself a restaurant and wine bar for a reason, so you’d be unwise to ignore that part of the equation. Comprising just 50 labels – 16 available by the glass and carafe – the list offers a convincing and holistic snapshot of Australian wine’s next generation. The same holds true for the line-up of digestifs, so you’re sure to head home on a high note.
A selection of drinks at Jane in Sydney
Snacks and drinks served up at Jane in Sydney
Regular’s tipChances are you already know about Australiano Hour – Jane’s daily happy hour offering, frequently cited as one of Sydney’s finest. That ain’t no lie. From 5pm-6pm Monday to Thursday and 4pm-6pm on Friday and Saturday, you’re looking at a tight edit of drinks for $15 or less (including $10 wines and Australianos) plus $3 oysters, some snacks and a few of the menu’s greatest hits (hello, kangaroo tartare and lamb and saltbush dumplings) at substantially lower prices. Book ahead; venture walking in at your peril.
Who to takeHere, it isn’t really a question of who to take, but rather how many. There’s room for 44 heads at Jane, with only one round table and a banquette for slightly larger groups, meaning two really is the magic number. If you like a bit of action, the upholstered bar stools are the seats to beat, but if you prefer a bit more privacy, angle for one of the corduroy-lined, couple-sized booths out back.