NOW EXPERIENCING:Kirbie

Leading South Melbourne’s new wave of snackin’ and sippin’ joints, this instantly likeable wine bar slinging Euro-leaning drinks and snacks is made for settling in.

The facade of Kirbie in South Melbourne
Why you goIs it just us, or is South Melbourne having a real moment right now? It’s always been a great place to eat – the presence of the epic South Melbourne Market has always anchored that. But in the streets radiating out from the market, and along the main artery of Clarendon, it’s gone into overdrive in the past year or so, with things popping off on the snacking side, the shopping side and (yep) the sippin’ side. And Kirbie is right there at the head of the charge. As a matter of fact, it has been here a while because what is now Kirbie was formerly James. Owner Kirbie Tate has morphed that celebrated Korean diner into a less formal “wine bar, bistro and caff”, and as sad as it was to bid farewell to James, the new look and feel is instantly likeable and just what the neighbourhood needed.
Why you stayWhy do we love it? In a word, personality. Kirbie Tate hasn’t just put her name over the door, the place is an extension of her – heck, she fitted the place out herself with her stepdad. It’s steeped in her style, from the timber to the stained glass, and has a winning intimacy and low-key elegance that make it perfect for catching up with old friends and new.
Inside Kirbie in South Melbourne
The blackboard at Kirbie lists the wine bar's specials
What drink to orderThe food is mostly Euro-leaning, but not slavishly so, and the same is true of the drinks – it’s mostly classic except when it’s not, so the best way to describe the list, a tidy one-pager, is “things Kirbie thinks you’ll like to drink”. You might start with a longneck of Czech lager, or have a piercingly cold Vesper Martini (the one James Bond invented, with gin and vodka). Wine-wise, we’re not talking paragraphs and paragraphs of choices of regions or grapes, but instead a tight, smart edit of just one, maybe two choices per style – but a good choice. You want Lambrusco? How about pale, blushing, dry Paltrinieri Radice di Sorbara? Pinot? How about the Maximus from local pioneers of the natural, Hochkirch? Glasses are all offered on a blackboard list that changes from night to night (if not bottle to bottle), making sure every one is fresh, and every visit unique.
What to eatEverything about Kirbie points to settling in, kicking back and making the most of your time with your pals, with three-quarters of the menu tilted towards smaller, more shareable plates. You could, theoretically, fly in, smash a main course and fly out, but where would be the fun in that? Get a few snacks on the go to have with a cocktail or a Champagne. Kingfish ceviche pepped up with green tomato, chilli and the surprise of pink peppercorns would be good here, as would the white zucchini with radishes and ricotta. You want more protein in your life? The citrus-glazed pork belly is calling your name, and its stone fruit and bitter-leaf accompaniment is singing back-up. Feeling hearty? Say hello to the chicken cotoletta, the thinking person’s parma, cooked on the bone and served with pickled onion, fried sage and slaw. There’s no messing around when it comes to dessert – just two certified bangers: a tarte Tatin and a tiramisù. Pow pow!
The chicken cotoletta is one of many menu highights at Kirbie in Melbourne
Regular’s tipWhat’s this Kirbie butter that pops up a few times on the menu? It’s a nori-powered wonder condiment – a tasty, umami-packed remnant from the spot’s Korean-Japanese former existence that’s good with just about everything, whether it be the flatbreads at the top of the menu or the steak at the other end.