NOW EXPERIENCING:Golden Gully

This levelled-up neighbourhood bar with a sunny disposition is all about Aussie drinks and vegetarian food, with bite delivered by a close-knit team primed for good times.

Golden Gully Interior
Why you go

When Daniel McBride and Dynn Smulewicz first opened Golden Gully on Leichhardt’s Norton Street in 2019, not only did they bring the inner-west suburb its first small bar, they did it with a commitment to local produce and vegetarian cooking that immediately made this neighbourhood haunt a destination for visitors from a much wider radius. When we say “local produce”, though, we’re not talking farmers’ markets and backyard chooks. Rather, the Gully offers an all-Australian drinks list, taking advantage of the booming craft-spirits movement to build cocktails with ingredients exclusively from our shores, and backs it up with wines and beers chosen with the same values in mind. That might see you enjoying an Aussie Negroni made with Brookie’s gin from Byron and a house blend of local vermouths and Italian-style bittersweet liqueurs, or clutching a cold tin of Stomping Ground raspberry sour beer from Melbourne, or perhaps swirling a glass of skin-contact riesling from one of the Adelaide Hills’ new-wave winemakers

To go with the drinks, the Gully has an all-vegetarian menu of snacks and shared plates – a roll-call of dishes that hit hard in the flavour stakes, and just happen to be meat-free. Both these are drawcards, of course, but the reason people keep coming back is just as much down to those serving the line-up and just how good it feels to sit here as what’s being served. As they say, “It’s always sunny at the Gully.”

 

Why you stayWhatever the day, whatever the hour, the atmosphere here is always bright. On warm afternoons, the front windows get opened up and a seat by them or at the bar will see a breeze flow through and ample opportunities for people-watching as the foot traffic flows past. Here, a close-knit team is front and centre, primed with banter and ready to pull beers or shake tins to your heart’s content. Take a seat in the leather booths at the back, upstairs or on the balcony, and staff will come to you while you admire the bottle-green walls and brass accents and make friends with locals. There’s no rush, and the people who have the best time here are those who come in the mid-afternoon and stick around into the evening. Follow their lead.
What drink to orderWhile you can have a lot of fun in the beer and wine sections (and the Gully offers plenty of bottles for groups), cocktails are the best place to start. Have a crack at an Auspresso Martini to see how all-local vodka, coffee liqueur and a hint of wattleseed play off each other. Or take on the signature Golden Gully Spritz – bittersweet Imbroglio liqueur from nearby distillers Poor Toms is topped up with Australian prosecco, making a drink geared for refreshment. But if you only order one cocktail, make it the Norton St Sour #4. Made with Mobius vodka from Marrickville and Brookie’s Mac – a macadamia and wattleseed liqueur – shaken together with lemon and aquafaba (the plant-based version of egg white), it’s an all-vegan, all-Aussie spin on a classic that’s as thirst-quenching as it is delicious.
Food and drinks served at Golden Gully
People enjoying cocktail at Golden Gully
What to pair it with Golden Gully prides itself on its food menu, and rightly so. Snacks range from bar nuts flavoured with wattleseed and miso to smoked-garlic hummus served with charry sourdough bread. And while plates of grilled broccolini with white beans and chilli-shallot oil or seasonal tacos and pasta – rich lentil Bolognese, perhaps – hit the spot for those seeking a full meal, there’s no going past the salt-and-vinegar potato scallops (or cakes, or fritters, depending on your postcode) served with sundried-tomato ketchup for dipping.
Why we love itGolden Gully will always win hearts for its local appeal, but the best thing about it is how it manages to turn its limitations into an asset. Plenty of bars would crumble under the weight of having to field an all-Aussie drinks list and a meat-free menu, but these guys revel in the challenge. In doing so, they’re showing the rest of them that the Australian drinks scene holds real depth and that a vegetarian menu doesn’t mean skimping on heft or deliciousness.
Regular’s tipThe good people at the Gully know that Sundays are for sleeping in, seeing friends and drinking Bloody Marys. Roll up after 1pm, and just $15 will get you a fresh, spiced, salty and generously garnished – that is, onion, pickle, olive – cocktail, plus a plate of those salty, vinegary potato scallops. Sure, the weekend might be coming to an end, but here the fun has just begun.
Who to takeThis is a late-afternoon or evening spot that really comes into its own on the weekend. Booths are perfect for groups of four to six looking for a catch-up, while those flying solo or in pairs should try to nab a spot on the balcony or along the bar. As for who makes up your party – take friends, take a date, take your mum. There’s something for everyone in the Gully.
Interior of Golden Gully