NOW EXPERIENCING:Dolly

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 14 Dec 2023

By
Daniela Frangos


This light-filled cocktail bar from the team behind Lune is a true all-rounder, paying equal attention to drinks, food, service and design against a disco-dedicated soundtrack.

Ambience at Dolly, Adelaide
Why you goThere’s been an uptick in very good bars in Adelaide’s inner south lately (hello, Good Gilbert and Bandit Pizza and Wine) and recent arrival Dolly, which opened in January 2023, is no exception. Sitting at the base of a new apartment building on Unley Road (next to Bandit), this sleek, sun-drenched corner wine and cocktail bar from the crew behind another suburban favourite, Lune, repeats its predecessor’s winning formula (an all-rounder with approachable wines, excellent snacks and affable bar staff), but with a clear focus on cocktails and disco-backed good times.
Why you stay

Where Lune became known first and foremost as a dining destination (with great drinks), the team at Dolly want this to be a local watering hole (with great food). Helping their argument are inventive cocktails that go well beyond the classics (the list of signatures includes a Tropical Margarita laced with charred pineapple syrup and a Cajun Martini with jalapeño chilli-infused vodka) and an approachable, largely local wine list with great-value options by the glass. The rest of the wine list caters to drinkers of every ilk – it’s a crowd-pleasing assortment of old and new world to suit the mixed crowd of well-heeled locals, young professionals and groups of friends gearing up for a big night out. 

Still, the food menu has a hard job convincing us it’s not worth coming for that alone. Case in point: a pair of golden fried brioche soldiers ferrying delicate crab meat crowned with chilli crisp and grated bottarga you won’t want to share.

Despite talk of their drinks focus, the team pays equal attention to the food, service and design. Take a seat at the showpiece concrete bar (easily the best spot in the house) to shoot the breeze with the friendly staff, enjoy the disco- and funk-fuelled playlist (everything from Donna Summer through to Mark Ronson) or take in the design by Genesin Studio, the team behind Mother Vine and Never Never Distillery. The fit-out – a mix of raw-rustic and polished futurism complete with a reflective chrome ceiling – was shortlisted for the 2023 Australian Interior Design Awards.

Interior ambiece at Dolly, Adelaide
Food and drinks at Dolly, Adelaide
What drink to orderThe Queen of Nashville is the signature – a bright and herbaceous cocktail that pays homage to the bar’s namesake, Dolly Parton – made with gin, elderflower, Luxardo (a clear, cherry liqueur), Chartreuse liqueur, and apple. But the Spicy Margs are the crowd-favourite, made with house-pickled jalapeño chillies and served on ice with a salty, tangy and spicy Tajin chilli rim. 
What to pair it withSoak it all up with those crab soldiers, or perhaps the simple but smokin’ toastie filled with Italy’s Taleggio cheese and spicy ’nduja salami spread for a little kick, or crisp-fried chicken served with fire engine-red hot sauce and tempered with pickled daikon radish.
Regular’s tip

Walk-ins are more likely to find a table here than at its sibling bar Lune, but it’s best to book on Friday and Saturday nights. Stay ’til late and you’ll score $15 cocktails from 10:00pm (until 1:00am) on Fridays and Saturdays. Or get there between 4:00pm and 6:00pm on a Friday for magnums of fizz, oyster specials and DJs. 

On Sundays, the bar hosts an ever-changing monthly lunch series (previous offerings have included “froths and broths”, “pasta and pop”, and “crab and Chablis”). And it has occasional speed-dating nights.

Food and drinks at Pipers of Penola
Fancy interiors at Dolly
Don’t leave withoutHead next door to the team’s new deli and wine bar Spread for a nightcap. The new spot is open on Friday and Saturday evenings for charcuterie, tinnies and stirred cocktails. Or pop by during the day for coffee, sandwiches and pastries.
Make it fancyThe drinks here are super-approachable and affordable, with most of the wines by the glass going for $14 and bottles for every level and occasion. But if you feel like pushing the boat out, order a bottle of the plush 2017 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, or the vibrant 2008 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs.
Who to takeThe timeless, for-all-seasons nature of this place makes it a great go-to for a family get-together, a catch-up with old friends, date night or an after-work drink – any occasion that warrants a meal and a tipple. The suburban spot is sleek and stylish but not intimidating – the kind of place you could even roll along to after pilates for a drink and a snack (did we mention those crab soldiers?). 
Catchup with freinds and family at Dolly in Adelaide
image credits: Lucy Partington