NOW EXPERIENCING:Di Stasio Città

Ronnie Di Stasio’s Melbourne CBD outpost combines all the art, architecture and hedonistic Italianate good times we expect and celebrate from this master restaurateur.

Why you go

There’s no place quite like Di Stasio Città. Even owner Ronnie Di Stasio’s other joints – the original St Kilda restaurant and bar and Di Stasio Carlton – are not quite like this dramatic, gorgeous space, aside from a shared enthusiasm, love and admiration for all things Italian. With its looping video art projected onto polished plaster walls, soaring ceilings, red-leather chairs reflected in the polished terrazzo floor, white marble bar, white-jacketed waiters and sculptural Murano glass chandeliers hovering above the bathrooms, Città is a magical combination of temple, gallery and restaurant. It certainly delivers a sense of occasion. 

Whether you’re dropping in for a mid-afternoon Martini – served on a silver tray with extra olives sitting in an ice-filled glass – and a snack of fried anchovy pastries or you’re settling in for the night at a linen-dressed table with views over to the manicured Treasury Gardens, just being in this room feels like the right place at the right time while making you more glamorous and sophisticated than you might have thought possible. It’s not a cheap night out, but Di Stasio Città’s ability to completely sweep you away from everyday life justifies the price of admission.

Why you stay Some places like their décor understated, a support player to what’s happening behind the bar and in the kitchen. Di Stasio Città takes the opposite approach. From the vibrant neon streetside mural by artist Reko Rennie to the snacks served on antique silver stands to the female waiters dressed in inky-blue dresses draped in scarlet beads, everything here has been carefully considered to make an impact. The visuals (including the crowd, which leans towards a well-heeled arty fashionista set) are there to feed the senses as much as the menu of heartily luxurious Italian food, such as handmade pasta tossed with crab meat, expertly roasted baby chicken or little paper cones of fried seafood. As well as being a legendary restaurateur who owns his own vineyard, Ronnie Di Stasio is known for his patronage in the arts and architecture scene. At Di Stasio Città, all these passions are on prominent, deliberate display.
What drink to order There are many brilliant Italian labels on the Città wine list such as excellent Barolo and elegant Terlano Classicos at various (sometimes head-spinning) price points. For those wanting to celebrate extravagantly, there’s no stinting on the Champagne selection either, whether you’re after the vintage or non-vintage version. Still, whatever you select from the wine list, it doesn’t feel right to come to a place like this without starting the adventure with a Martini. It will arrive swiftly, properly diluted and chilled, elegantly presented on a silver tray with extra olives and a bowl for the pits. The perfect mood-setter.
White wine and lemonade served at Di Stasio Citta
Happy man enjoyng at Di Stasio Città
What to pair it with Do not miss the merenda, a superb crumbed-veal sandwich served warm on fluffy white bread. It arrives wrapped in foil so the butter has melted into the bread by the time it hits the table. Simple, honest, excellent snackery.
Why we love itAll Di Stasio restaurants have a style of service that’s the opposite of the bowing and scraping “the customer is always right” school. The people who roam the floor and work the bar here are professionals who display a pride in their work and in the offering they’re serving. They’re also pretty good at a bit of back-and-forth banter, so the service here is as integral to the experience as the food, wine and décor.
Regular’s tipIt can get hectic here on a busy night and, while the almost out-of-control Italian party atmosphere is part of the vibe, for those after something a little less raucous and who want to contemplate the gallery side of Città’s personality, coming here during the afternoon between lunch and dinner is a lovely, serene experience. Another tip? The toilets have push-button sliding doors. Once inside, remember to push the button to lock the door or face having people stumbling in to join you.
Who to takeThis is the kind of space that works as well for an intimate date – try for one of the corner spots at either end of the marble bar – as it does for a place to celebrate life’s events with family and friends. Dress up, splash out, celebrate life.
Beauty and the Brutalist at Di Stasio Città