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Drinks Directory|Non-alc Options|Melbourne – North|Date night

Commis

Tuesday: 5:00 – 11:00 PM
56-58 Johnston Street, Collingwood, VIC, 3066
Phone
0466 007 798
Website
commis.com.au
Instagram
@commismelbourne

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 02 Oct 2023

By
Michael Harden

Long-time Gerald’s Bar alumni strike out with their own spin on the focused, idiosyncratic neighbourhood bar where a tight food menu and excellent tunes meet fun, deftly-made drinks.

owners of commis
Why you goIf you know what to look for, it’s not difficult to spot the family resemblance between young-pup Collingwood bar Commis and North Carlton’s much-loved stalwart Gerald’s Bar. Most obviously, two of the owners, Daniel Docherty and Gab de Melo Freire, worked at Gerald’s for many years and their familiarity with the small neighbourhood bar model gives Commis an ease and confidence unusual in a venture this fresh. The feeling of being in safe hands hits the moment you walk through the door, bolstered by a retro-flavoured timber and terrazzo fit-out that tricks your brain into thinking it’s been around forever. That’s a move Gerald’s made when it opened, too, and while there are other similarities – a compact, daily-changing food menu, excellent tunes (often via vinyl), a relaxed service style that makes everyone feel like regulars – they’re on the level of DNA rather than duplication; cousins rather than siblings. Melbourne’s bar scene is richer for the fact this is a family choosing to go forth and multiply.
Why you stayBe warned: Commis has such a comfortable, welcoming vibe that if you’ve made plans for later it might be wise to rethink them. The split-level space, formerly occupied by a Thai restaurant, has been stripped back and opened up with banquettes, wooden furniture and joinery, an intimate L-shaped bar at the front (a good spot for those who enjoy striking up conversations with strangers), an open-air courtyard out the back and white walls hung with an impressive collection of art. There’s a Euro-bar feel to Commis that makes it the kind of venue that caters to whatever you’re after, whether that’s well-crafted cocktails and snacks or delving deeper into the wine list and food menu. The drinks list is a great place to get a handle on the approach at Commis. It offers two points of entry: the traditional, listing drinks in an order you might expect (cocktails and wine bookended by beer and Scotch), and the second, called Expressionist, accessed by flipping the menu over. This is all about “mood” and is divided into categories like “I Can’t Decide” and “Drinking with the In-Laws”. It’s quirky, amusing, interesting but still user-friendly, much like Commis itself.
DJ at commis
cocktail drinks at commis
What drink to orderThere’s plenty of good-quality drinking on the docket at Commis, but it’s wise to order at least one cocktail. This is a bar fond of a well-made classic and it embraces the “tossed” method of Martini-making, which, as well as providing a fun spectacle, also results in an excellent, properly chilled drink. For those after something more off-road, it’s a good idea to consider the Butterbeer cocktail. Even if you have an allergy to Harry Potter, this is a triumph of a concoction – a little silly, a little sweet, served warm but, by blending dark rum, Spain’s Licor 43 liqueur, stout, spices and, yes, butter in all the right proportions, it’s a drink for even serious adults to enjoy on a cold and blustery night.
What to pair it withThe Commis food menu changes regularly, but sticks with a single-page format. It always includes great snacks such as oysters, pickles, cured meats and addictive chicken-soup croquettes, and some heftier dishes – perhaps a pitch-perfect venison osso buco or a clear and delicious mushroom broth with comforting, dumpling-like nettle gnudi. It’s a versatile list, catering to every level of hunger.
Why we love itYou can always tell a bar that’s been assembled by people with experience and a solid vision of what they want to achieve. Commis displays an understanding that a neighbourhood bar is about giving the locals what they want, whether that’s a bit of banter, a wine list that won’t break the budget (but also with the option to do that, if you’re feeling flush), great tunes that will have you reaching for Shazam and food that sticks closely to the comfort zone. It’s a bar that feels assured, which is always reassuring.
Food at commis
Ambience at Commis
Regular’s tipThere are no dud seats in the house at Commis, but for those who enjoy the camaraderie of a seat at the bar, here it’s intimate and conducive to conversation, both with the bartender and your fellow patrons.
Don’t leave withoutPaying careful attention to the art. Co-owner Adina Weinstein has assembled a beautiful and, at times, staggering collection. Did someone say Miró?
Sponsor logo
In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Michael HardenAfter 25 years writing about wine and food, Michael Harden is getting the hang of it.
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Drinks DirectoryAfter work drinksVego Food OptionsMelbourneBarMeal and a bevCasual catch-upMelbourne – NorthA+ spirits listGreat tunesOutdoor areaKiller cocktailsNon-alc OptionsTop notch wine listDate night
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