Why you stayBehind its stained-glass and green-tiled Victorian shopfront, Clover is the picture of modern, clean-lined minimalism, all white-painted walls, polished-concrete floor and comfortably upholstered banquettes hugging the walls. It’s a lovely room that retains a sense of calm and spaciousness even when the crowds pour in and the central communal table is heaving. The kitchen down the back pumps out the likes of smoked tri-tip, pickled fennel and Thousand Island dressing on house-baked sourdough, or a pilaf-like rice dish flavoured with pickled garlic, spring-onion oil and bright, citrusy sorrel leaves. Add charming service from people who know their way around Lyndon Kubis’s ever-changing list of small, minimal-intervention wine producers, house cocktails featuring the output of local craft distillers and beer from some of Melbourne’s best small breweries, and it’s understandable why it can be hard to get a table here if you haven’t planned ahead.