NOW EXPERIENCING:Clover
Thursday: 12:00 – 10:00 PM
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Read time 3 Mins

Posted 05 Apr 2023

By
Michael Harden


Inside the wine bar Clover in Melbourne

Part of the current Melbourne wine-bar boom, Clover pays equal attention to drinks, service, food and design while never forgetting the fun part of the equation.

Plating up dishes at Clover in Melbourne
Why you goSwan Street in Richmond has been on an impressive, upward food-and-wine trajectory, and the opening of Clover in late 2022 is proof the street is continuing that journey. A partnership between Lyndon Kubis (also of The Moon in Collingwood and Prahran’s The Alps) and chef Charley Snadden-Wilson (ex-Etta and Embla), Clover is also part of the new wave of smart-casual wine bars currently washing over Melbourne. They’re all offering a highly attractive combination of professional experience, short, smart, fashionable lists of wine and food and well-designed spaces. Flexibility is the core of these wine bars. At Clover it’s as easy to stop by for a swift snack and a glass of wine as it is to kick back and make a night of it. It’s an approach that works particularly well on a booming strip like Swan Street where the bar-hopping opportunities are primo. Be warned, though: scoring a table in Clover’s excellent back courtyard on a balmy evening or perhaps one of the chic curved booths in the front windows may put paid to your venue-hopping plans.
Why you stayBehind its stained-glass and green-tiled Victorian shopfront, Clover is the picture of modern, clean-lined minimalism, all white-painted walls, polished-concrete floor and comfortably upholstered banquettes hugging the walls. It’s a lovely room that retains a sense of calm and spaciousness even when the crowds pour in and the central communal table is heaving. The kitchen down the back pumps out the likes of smoked tri-tip, pickled fennel and Thousand Island dressing on house-baked sourdough, or a pilaf-like rice dish flavoured with pickled garlic, spring-onion oil and bright, citrusy sorrel leaves. Add charming service from people who know their way around Lyndon Kubis’s ever-changing list of small, minimal-intervention wine producers, house cocktails featuring the output of local craft distillers and beer from some of Melbourne’s best small breweries, and it’s understandable why it can be hard to get a table here if you haven’t planned ahead.
Inside Clover on Melbourne's Swan Street
Wine and snacks at Clover come highly recommended
What drink to orderThere’s plenty going on for curious drinkers at Clover. With floor staff you can trust to point you in the right direction and a list designed to please and interest rather than challenge, navigating the wine offer here is fun, even for those who twitch at the mention of “natural wine”. There’s also an apéritif list that’s well worth your attention – a clever collection of vermouth, sake, sherry, white port and local drops such as the delicious Italian-style Saint Felix Bitter Citrus Aperitivo. A good place to start the night right.
What to pair it withThere’s plenty of good snacking on Charley Snadden-Wilson’s single-page menu – excellent shucked-to-order oysters, an ever-changing seafood plate, house-made pickles served with a mayo-like garlic-flavoured whey. But for those after a bit more bulk, it’s hard to pass up the half chook. Roasted in the wood-fired oven, the bird and accompanying sauce are flavoured with honey-fermented shallots, fresh thyme, mustard and pickled vegetables. It’s a winner.
Try a range of dishes at Clover and pair it with some wines
Outdoor tables at Clover in Melbourne
Regular’s tipOn warm evenings and balmy days, Clover’s back courtyard is hard to resist. But for those with a love of people-watching, the curved booths in the front window, one either side of the front door, with their views of Clover’s dining room and the passing street parade, are the tables you’ll really want to score.
Make it fancyWhile there’s nothing that could legitimately be called cheap on Clover’s wine list (though value for money is another matter), there are good opportunities for those wanting to splash some cash, mostly via some particularly fine small-producer French numbers of the Champagne and Chablis kind.
The wine selection is carefully curated at Clover in Melbourne
Who to takeFor those wishing to give out-of-towners a quick lesson in the breadth and depth of Melbourne’s bar-restaurant scene, Clover is a good place to add to the itinerary. The care and attention paid to drinks, food, service and decor, the relaxed confidence with which it’s delivered, and the unassuming location make this wine bar a great example of why the local hospo scene is so renowned.