Why you stayDespite the upscale surrounds, this is a choose-your-own-adventure kind of place. Sure, you can push the boat out. A powerhouse $130 glass of Gevrey-Chambertin, or a spenny Sauternes made way back in 1975? The eye-catching Nude glassware in which your choices arrive is suitably elegant with slender stems taller and skinnier than a Jimmy Choo stiletto. But you don’t have to spend like crazy to go home happy. A $15 glass of classic Dr Loosen Blue Slate Riesling, or a $16 dry manzanilla sherry with a ramekin of crisp smoked almonds alongside could just as easily be on the cards. Flattering lighting, a gently curved cellar-style roof, on-trend crazy-paved flooring, and a handsome central communal table combine to create a chic and sociable setting to savour a daily-changing list. Mark Smith is an urbane host and as enthusiastic about wine as he is about spreading the word about great winemakers, so it’s well worth having a yarn. There are treats the list doesn’t mention and while half-glass pours no longer feature on the menu just ask nicely, show you’re interested, and you’ll be able to taste widely without breaking the bank.