NOW EXPERIENCING:Arnold’s

A neighbourhood bar with appeal that goes well beyond the local.

Listen to the best music at Arnold's, Melbourne
Why you goIt might not be literally true that the people of Kensington are weeping with gratitude at the arrival of a killer new wine bar to call their own, but it’s not far off. And while Arnold’s is by and for the locals (co-owners Scott Eddington and Lauren Chibert live in the 3031), it’s such an excellent, fun and delicious proposition that it’s drawing interest from far and wide. A little bit Mexican, a little bit natural wine, a little bit cocktail, and a whole lotta good vinyl, it’s got elements of things you like from all over, but that come together in a way that’s not quite like anything else. It’s a good time.
What drink to orderThat depends. How good are you at going past the words “Green Tomato Martini” at the top of the page? If you’re like us, you’re ordering that straight off the bat and you’re getting rewarded with a frosty little number that’s herbaceous and potent in a very pleasing way. Wander a little further down the double-sided A4 by-the-glass list and you’ll find a mezcal Negroni and a handful of vermouthy things (hello Saison house red, hola Fot Li vermut rojo) leading into wines that lean left of centre. The aptly named Uberbrut from Holly’s Garden in Whitlands is the sparkling option (and a winner at that), while the others run to three whites, two orange/pink options and three reds. Tight, but every choice is packed with interest, whether it’s a King Valley riesling blend from the legends at Schmölzer & Brown, the feisty orange Rattlesnake field blend from Latta, or the deeply drinkable barbera from Piedmont producers Accornero Campomero. It’s the same vibe by the bottle, and happily there’s lots to choose from under $90 a throw.
A wide range of drinks is served at Arnold's, Melbourne
Find a great range of Mexican-inspired cuisine at Arnold's, Melbourne
What to eatWith time under his belt at Mamasita and a deep love of Mexican cuisines, Scott really knows his way around a chilli. That could mean the brightness of yellow Peruvian chillies in the dressing on the rock oysters, or the smoke of chipotles in the yoghurt that comes with the deeply savoury little lamb barbacoa pastries, or the tang in the strawberry (yes, strawberry) hot sauce that comes with the absolutely essential cassava fritters. It’s not spicy-spicy (well, mostly not), but if you love the complexity of chilli, you’re going to really love this food. Hot stuff aside, this is a menu made for sharing. Dig into that beef tartare with tomatillo salsa and crème fraîche before hitting the charry, delicious grilled sugarloaf cabbage, and the whole King George whiting with mole manchamanteles (Scott’s take on the sweet-hot mole sauce from Oaxaca) and don’t be shy with the choko salad.
Regular’s tipDo you love the way the wine list has Indigenous places names listed alongside the English names for where the wines are made – Noongar and Swan Valley, for instance, or Wiradjuri and the Canberra district? It’s something we’re seeing more of, and in this case, it comes from Nagesh Seethiah, co-owner of North Melbourne’s excellent Manzé. Scott was in the kitchen there before he opened Arnold’s, and asked Nagesh to help him out writing the list.
Don’t leave withoutAt most wine bars we’d usually suggest another wine instead of dessert, or maybe cheese. But to leave Arnold’s without trying the signature orange and chipotle flan – basically warmly spiced crème caramel – would be to well and truly miss out.
The bar at Arnold's in Melbourne