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Our expert takes us through the tastiest new spirits coming straight out of Mexico.
Walter Gonzalez, from our Alexandria store in Sydney, may come from Colombia, but when it comes to drinking spirits, he looks north to Mexico. He's always loved tequila and mezcal, but it's important to understand that while they're similar, they're not the same thing.
For starters, tequila can only be made using the blue agave, whereas mezcal can be produced from up to 50 different agave plants. Tequila is made in the Jalisco region (as well as a few other small provinces), while mezcal is distilled all over Mexico. And they’re made differently, too. Tequila is steamed in big, industrial ovens, while mezcal is cooked in an underground pit lined with volcanic rocks. And then there's the taste.
“When you drink mezcal, you have a really distinctive, smoky flavour and aromatics,” says Walter. “It can be quite polarising, especially when you look back at what mezcal tasted like 10 years ago. It was very rustic, and difficult to drink, but modern mezcal producers have realised that they need to make a more approachable product. Now we're seeing some incredible mezcals in the market.”
Tequila has changed over the past few decades too, with high-quality examples becoming more and more common in Australia. “We've moved past the idea that we have to take tequila as a shot,” says Walter. “It's actually an incredibly versatile spirit and great in cocktails, whether that's a classic tequila cocktail or something more experimental. The same goes for mezcal – have it with tonic water, neat, or make a Bloody Maria instead of a Bloody Mary by switching vodka for mezcal, or tequila. The sky really is the limit.”
So, whether you’re looking for a versatile cocktail base, a straight sipper or something to enjoy over ice, odds are you'll find it below.
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1. Cazcabel Blanco Tequila
Cazcabel is a name you should get used to seeing in the tequila world. It's a small, independent distillery located in the Jalisco highlands and the Blanco is their house tequila. It's fresh, crisp and rustic with some nice earthy and citrus notes, making it a really approachable spirit.
"I really like this," says Walter. "It shines in cocktails, particularly in something like a 'TNT', or tequila 'n' tonic. The tonic enhances the flavours and adds a refreshing element without the bitterness overpowering the tequila. I'd definitely recommend experimenting with all the different flavours of tonics that are available and finding out which you like best!"
2. Cazcabel Tequila Coffee Liqueur
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3. Cazcabel Tequila Honey Liqueur
Don Cazcabel is a legendary, mysterious figure in Jalisco. A mountain-dwelling medicine man famous for his natural tonics, he's said to not only have blessed the bees that make the honey used in this liqueur, but was also never stung by them. So yes, you read that correctly: this liqueur comes from sacred bees.
As for its taste? "There are lovely honey aromatics, gentle agave hints and a little honeyed sweetness," says Walter. "It's a nice, fun alternative to use while making a Margarita, or you can also pour it over some crushed ice for a really approachable and easy sipper when the weather is warm."
4. Cazcabel Reposado Tequila
A tequila that's labelled as being 'reposado' is one that's been matured in oak for anywhere between two and 12 months. Cazcabel's example has spent nine months ageing, which is towards the higher end of the spectrum for a reposado and gives it a rich brown colour.
"This tequila is quite complex and serious," says Walter. "There are the classic earthy, agave flavours, but also spice from the oak along with notes of vanilla and caramel. It's a great base for a Mexican negroni, if you swap out the gin. You could also use a stick of cinnamon as a garnish to add even more complexity to the cocktail."
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5. Burrito Fiestero Cenizo Mezcal
When a mezcal translates as 'Party Donkey', you better believe you're in for a good time. And as we previously learned from Walter, mezcal can be made all over Mexico, rather than being restricted to Jalisco. "This is made in Durango from cenizo agave," says Walter. "It can take over a decade to grow these agave plants and though they're challenging, they make amazing mezcal."
As is typical of cenizo agave, the Burrito Fiestero has a luxurious, creamy mouthfeel and perfectly balances that classic mezcal smokiness. Walter's recommendation? Drink it neat. "As much as I like cocktails, I think this is more of a sipping mezcal," he says. "It also comes from an organic distiller, which is great. They only use renewable energy, and any waste leftover from production is repurposed to make bricks. They use the bricks to build up the distillery, so nothing goes to waste."
6. Perro De San Juan Mezcal Espadin Blue Label
Perro de San Juan is a relatively new distillery, having officially stoked its first underground fire in 2016. They're a Kosher-certified family operation and make their Blue Label mezcal from espadin agave, which is the most common type of agave used for mezcal. It's a really interesting, full-bodied spirit that will keep even the most experienced mezcal drinker interested.
"It has guts and is extremely flavoursome," says Walter. "Even though it's quite intense, the smoke is really well integrated so you get plenty of herbal flavours and a long, sweet finish. It's very complex – you can smell it every half hour and pick up something different every time."
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7. Peloton De La Muerte Espadin Mezcal
Ever tried a mezcal – or anything, really – called the Squadron of Death? Well, now's your chance. It's made in Oaxaca from espadin agave and Walter believes this Squadron of Death will breathe new life into your cocktail game.
"This is a super-approachable mezcal with notes of kiwifruit, lemon zest, peppercorn and a little smokiness," he says. "It's really, really versatile but will be particularly good in a Paloma, which everyone seems to be making right now, to the point that I keep running out of grapefruit soda in our store."
