A Dan Murphy's Wine Merchant (and Mornington local) breaks down all things food and wine.
Though Travis is a Mornington Peninsula local and working as a Wine Merchant in our Cheltenham store, he's previously travelled the world sharpening his winemaking skills. Two vintages in Burgundy, France – the spiritual home of pinot noir and chardonnay – gave him plenty of experience with Mornington's two favourite varietals, while he's also spent time in Portugal, Tasmania and the Yarra Valley. We asked Trav to talk us through a few of the region's stand-out wines and what might go well alongside them; but first, we were curious as to what it is about the Mornington Peninsula that brought Trav home, given the adventures he's had.
"This region is so unique," he says. "There's lots of undulation and variety, which has led to the rise of Mornington pinot, for one. It's easy for wines to be homogenous in some regions, whereas here they all have their own unique twist. We're just settling into some older vines too, which is hugely exciting as the wines are already popular, but only going to get better."
"The one thing I've taken away from Yabby Lake, and the Peninsula in general, is that the winemakers are so invested in the vineyard," says Trav. "It's more important than the winemaking, and all of winemaker Tom Carson's wines can simply be described as pure. They reflect his understated personality and may feel effortless, but there's so much quality attached to them thanks to that focus on growing the best grapes."
Trav recommends pairing Yabby Lake's pinot noir with gamey meats. "People talk about duck and pinot, and it's certainly a good match, but don't discredit venison or even kangaroo. I think modern pinots can really handle these savoury meats, just don't go too heavy on the char or sauces. You can add a bit of zing with a vinaigrette, or spiced cherries, which will bring it all together."
Barney Flanders – the man behind Garagiste – has been making wine on the Peninsula for 20 years, but relatively speaking, he's still a newcomer compared to the old stalwarts of the region. "It's fantastic because his personality really shines through and he's constantly evolving his style," says Trav. "His chardonnays focus on single sites and whenever possible, he makes everything in an identical way to really hero the nuances between the vineyards. He has a slightly eclectic side and I think you see that in the wines too. He's not forcing anything; just encouraging it to find its own path, which is a really interesting aspect of his winemaking style."
For Trav, this chardonnay is perfect during Sunday roast with friends and family. "It just feels so homely when paired with a crispy roast chicken," he says. "It has this lovely weight that matches the chicken perfectly, and if you wanted to drink it mid-week, you could even cook up a chicken schnitzel with coleslaw and freshly grated apple. Otherwise, if you're looking for something a little fancier, it'd be great with beautiful crayfish or lobster with a really buttery sauce, as the natural acidity cuts through those richer flavours."
When it comes to serious rosé, this wine has been in Trav's top three for a decade now. "It's always been such a go-to wine for me," he says, "and though it's serious, it's never taken itself too seriously."
You can expect to find those light, delicate characters typical of rosé, but it's the slight bitterness, reminiscent of Campari, that Trav finds most appealing. "It's made from pinot noir and shiraz grapes, so there are those traditional characters of spice and red fruits too," he says. "It's such a good food wine, and really versatile, so it can handle more serious dishes like salmon while also being a great picnic wine. Something simple like a charcuterie and cheese board while catching up with friends is perfect."
Kathleen Quealy is a big deal on the Peninsula, having been the first person, along with her partner Kevin, to plant the pinot gris/grigio in the region. "She's a whirlwind of fun and loveable energy," says Travis. "People said she and Kevin were crazy to plant gris here, but they'd travelled the world and understood what makes a good wine, so they nail it every time. It's rich – almost a meal in a glass – and there's just so much generosity, which is a real French interpretation of the variety."
Quealy's pinot gris is a wine that can handle bigger, richer flavours. "To be honest, it does everything really, really well," says Trav. "Seafood especially, but it's just a great, solid glass of wine. I'd have a glass making dinner and another while eating, whether it's a garlic seafood linguine, a creamy carbonara or even grilled chicken. There's a beautiful energy in the wine and it always over delivers."
White wine and beef ragu? Hear us out, because this is a bit of a mind-bender of a wine. As Trav says, "It's essentially making a red wine from a white grape. It's not a rosé, it's not an orange wine – it's a unique beast and I still don't know how to pigeonhole it."
What Trav does know, however, is that this wine definitely needs food with it. "It's hugely textural and not for everyone," he says. "It's got a real bitterness about it, as well as these savoury notes of cinnamon, clove and anise. Foodwise, you need something with generosity that can really match it. I had it a couple of nights ago with beef ragu – slow-cooked, but not too rich – and the combination worked surprisingly well. Most people would say that you need big, heavy reds for ragu, but this was just harmonious. It's a truly unique wine that will stop you in your tracks."
