Graham and Ruby Haupt work together, play together, and this is how they celebrate together.
For most people, starting a business with family is a recipe for disaster. But for Melbourne chef Ruby Haupt, opening Fitzroy favourite Freda’s Bistro with her dad Graham has been a soufflé of success. “We have a good balance working together and respect each other to handle our own parts of the business. It’s a very natural partnership,” says Ruby before laughing. “Right, Dad?” Graham, of course, agrees. “There’s a father-daughter element to it, particularly if things get a bit testy, but ultimately we run different parts of the business. Ruby runs the space and I just give my support. Our relationship as parent and child is distinctly different outside of work.” Different, but their family dynamic definitely paved the way for a successful professional partnership. “We’ve always done everything together since I was young,” Ruby says. “We’ve travelled together, renovated houses together, played sport together.”
So, it’s all play at home, all business at work, but we have it on good authority Graham makes Ruby’s lunch. “I make the simplest sandwiches for Ruby every day and I bring them into work for her. It's just two slices of bread with pickles, cheese and cold meat. She loves it.” Too cute.
Here, Ruby and Graham talk about their winning dynamic, Graham’s (unknowingly) great taste in restaurants, and the perfect menu for their Father’s Day celebration.
- Q.Ruby, what’s the best thing about working with your Dad?
“Obviously, I'm still young and this is my first proper partnership and proper business. And from what I’ve heard or seen in other partnerships, disagreements can happen and there can be trust issues. I have none of that with Dad because our trust in each other is absolute. We know we have our best interests at heart, and it’s such a benefit to know he’s always doing the right thing by me.”
- Q.Graham, what’s the best thing about watching Ruby succeed as a chef?
“I’ve got two daughters and they’re both very hardworking people. They’re very centred and steadfast in the way they do things. Ruby just takes things on. One of the best things has been to see her develop and lead a team, and instil in them what we believe and want as a business. It’s a fantastic thing to see. What we do is make food, but it’s really about developing good relationships and she’s done that. It’s amazing to be part of. She’s also a young woman in a very difficult industry – one that gets a bit macho, if you know what I mean – but Ruby holds her own and gives as much as she gets. She demands respect for being a person, first and foremost. Their mum has been a fantastic influence for that side of their character. They’re very, very strong-willed and strong in their principles. It’s fantastic.”
- Q.What’s your go-to drink?
Ruby: “At a bar, I’d start with an Amaretto Sour. With food, I’d order wine. I'm definitely a wine drinker. I’ll choose based on the food, the weather and how I'm feeling, then just work my way through the wine list.”
Graham: “I don't drink that much now. I used to drink beer, and lately I've been having alcohol-free beer – I really love the Heineken Zero. I’d probably start with a beer, have a nice pinot noir in between and then I would always finish with whiskey on ice.”
- Q.Best restaurant you’ve ever been to?
Graham: “What was that one in Sydney, Ruby?”
Ruby: “Dad loved Ester.”
Graham: “That’s it. Just the atmosphere, the experience and the complexity of their food in terms of skill and the simplicity of the flavours they use. It was really well done. I’m not what people call a ‘foodie’, I don't even know what that means. And I don’t get out much. I also liked that one in Melbourne, was it Gimlet?”
Ruby: “Love how Dad’s like, ‘I don’t know restaurants’ but then picks two of the most well-known restaurants right now as favourites [laughs]. For me, in Melbourne, I love France-Soir. It’s my go-to for birthdays and celebrations. I have a very specific order there. We start with a beef tartare and the saumon frais mariné à l’aneth [fresh salmon marinated in dill]. And then a steak, whether or not that'd be a scotch fillet depends on who I'm with. Sides? Always the chips, the bread, the salads, and finishing with the crème brûlée. I’d most likely drink a red, but their staff are very knowledgeable, so I’d see what they recommend.”
- Q.What’s your favourite way to celebrate together?
Ruby: “Like Dad said, he doesn’t eat out a lot, but when I take him out, it’s to celebrate and I like to make sure the restaurant’s up there. We went to Gimlet for his birthday, and we both really enjoyed the experience of fine dining: the food yes, but also the atmosphere, the staff, all of it.”
- Q.How do you like to entertain?
Ruby: “We entertain a lot at the restaurant, but when it’s a celebration with all our extended family, I usually do the cooking with my cousin who’s a great cook. We’ll plan the menu and make all the traditional foods as well as nice salads. Dad’s side of the family are South African, so lots of different curries, veggies and big flavours.”
Lets plan a Father’s Day celebratory dinner
- Q.Who’s coming?
Ruby: “Dad and I, and my sister Olivia.”
- Q.Who’s in charge?
Ruby: “We would usually be working the lunch service at the restaurant on Father’s Day so we’ll celebrate that night. After close, I’ll cook up a couple of Dad’s favourites. It’s very casual with music playing, endless amounts of tea and continuous grazing.”
- Q.Drink on arrival?
Ruby: “We’ll pour a glass of Lanson Black Label Champagne while we prep. Normally I’m more of a red wine drinker, but this is so fresh and lemony, with just the right amount of toasty, roast nut complexity.”
- Q.What are you eating?
Ruby: “We’ll start with a selection of delicious deli meats from the Queen Victoria Markets and for dinner we’ll have mussels in a spicy tomato sauce with lots of parsley and lemon – that’s Dad’s favourite. I’ll also make spaghetti napolitana and pour some reds – we’re going with Nanny Goat Vineyard Pinot Noir and d'Arenberg The Laughing Magpie Shiraz Viognier this year. Pinot noir is great as a starter wine and the Nanny Goat is a beautiful light, juicy pinot. You can ease into the heavier shiraz-viognier blend after that – d’Arenberg is a classic McLaren Vale producer and I love to support an Aussie business.”
- Q.For dessert?
Ruby: “My meringue roulade is the dessert we’re known for. We often do a set menu for events like Father’s Day, and that would usually be on it. It’s really light, with lots of fresh fruit. It goes well with a sparkling like Sidewood Adelaide Hills Sparkling NV. It’s got these amazing strawberry and nectarine characters that match so well with the roulade. Sparkling and strawberries – such a classic combination.”
- Q.What’s Dad’s gift?
Ruby: “Dad always enjoys a good quality whisky at the end of the night, so we’ll give him a bottle of Lark Classic Cask Single Malt Australian Whisky. Whisky has been Dad’s drink of choice for as long as I can remember, and he loves the Lark in particular because it’s so smooth. Perfect for the end of a meal, or end of a long day.”
