NOW EXPERIENCING:Yarra Falls

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 26 Sep 2022

By
Michael Harden


A diorama with a waterfall is a crowd-puller, but the star attraction at Yarra Falls is the all-local drinks list with standout cocktails featuring native ingredients for the win.

Bar counter at Yarra Falls
Why you goA waterfall in a bar is an obvious attraction, so it’s perfectly legitimate to come to this moodily lit, 25-seat joint solely to check it out. But there’s more to the diorama behind the bar here that contains this water feature than attracting a curious crowd. A model of this part of Melbourne before colonisation, the diorama acts as Yarra Falls’ mission statement: to embrace the concept of place. The bar does this with a tip of the hat to the history of the area – Yarra Falls is named after an actual waterfall that once existed on this stretch of the Yarra River, a meeting place for First Nations people – but also through what’s served. All the wine, beer and spirits here are not only made locally (mostly in Victoria, with the occasional foray into the rest of Australia for spirits), but also sustainably by producers who acknowledge Country, source native ingredients and support Indigenous-run businesses. There’s serious intent here, but that doesn’t make for a weighty experience, and the room, part of the 1850s-built Tavistock House, is a charming place to spend some time. And while the ingredients are sourced within certain parameters, there’s no compromise on the quality. Mostly, Yarra Falls is about delivering a unique experience – local flavours, a little history and a sense of place, set to the trickling backdrop of a waterfall in a building with excellent period patina. What’s not to love?
Why you stayFans of small, dark and handsome bars will immediately feel at home in Yarra Falls. Though it’s a relatively new business, the bar’s gold-rush era home and the copious use of dark timber and restrained lighting give it the feel of a place that’s been around the block a few times. That may also have something to do with owner Brendan Keown (formerly of Sydney’s Baxter Inn and Restaurant Hubert), who skilfully steers Yarra Falls’ influences away from theme-park gimmickry towards comfort and a considered aesthetic. Cocktails – a must if you want to get the full YF experience – include the native likes of bush honey, wattleseed, strawberry gum and paperbark (used for both smoking whisky and as drink coasters). This makes  for unique combinations that reflect where you are in the world. Wines on the compact list, meanwhile, come with tasting notes that include both how, for instance, the  Little Brunswick Syrah tastes (“white pepper, raspberries, bouquet garni”) and where it comes from (Grampians/Jardwadjali Country). The size of the space works in its favour, too – you’ll more than likely find yourself in conversation with a stranger, comparing notes about the cocktails or your nostalgia for a tune from the all-Australian playlist.
a drink served Yarra Falls bar
Interior at Yarra Falls
What drink to orderThe drinks list is a tight two-page document that changes constantly, but is consistent in its championing of local winemakers, breweries and distilleries. There are plenty of gems in all categories here, but consider a cocktail – real and successful effort is put into the mixed drinks here to give them a sense of place. The Yarra-groni is an excellent bittersweet take on the classic, combining Melbourne Gin Company gin with bitter curaçao and sweet vermouth from local liqueur producer Marionette. Those looking for a no-alcohol alternative, meanwhile, should be well pleased with the Donnybrook, a combination of iced tea from Indigenous café Mabu Mabu and wattleseed.
What to pair it withThe Yarra Falls snack offer is both concise and reflective of Brendan Keown’s Irish background. Menu stalwarts – Irish potato bread, a daily-changing soup and freshly shucked oysters – are often joined by in-season snacks such as smoked eel on lavosh.
Why we love itThere’s a lot to talk about in a bar with a mission like Yarra Falls, but the staff here are foremost about making sure you have a good time, explaining the way the menu works with minimal fuss and the right amount of humour. They’re also experts at determining your level of interest in wanting to know more, whether that’s about indoor waterfalls or Indigenous businesses producing amazing things to eat and drink.
Exterior of Yarra Falls
Sieating at Yarra Falls
Regular’s tipLook up: the white lights hovering above the bar are actually a star map of the Melbourne night sky in November showing the Seven Sisters constellation, an important element in the Aboriginal calendar.
Don’t leave withoutYarra Falls makes its own amaro, Italy’s bittersweet style of liqueur, with native botanicals such as wattleseed, lemon myrtle and green figs, all foraged from within five kilometres of the bar.