Why you goA waterfall in a bar is an obvious attraction, so it’s perfectly legitimate to come to this moodily lit, 25-seat joint solely to check it out. But there’s more to the diorama behind the bar here that contains this water feature than attracting a curious crowd. A model of this part of Melbourne before colonisation, the diorama acts as Yarra Falls’ mission statement: to embrace the concept of place. The bar does this with a tip of the hat to the history of the area – Yarra Falls is named after an actual waterfall that once existed on this stretch of the Yarra River, a meeting place for First Nations people – but also through what’s served. All the wine, beer and spirits here are not only made locally (mostly in Victoria, with the occasional foray into the rest of Australia for spirits), but also sustainably by producers who acknowledge Country, source native ingredients and support Indigenous-run businesses. There’s serious intent here, but that doesn’t make for a weighty experience, and the room, part of the 1850s-built Tavistock House, is a charming place to spend some time. And while the ingredients are sourced within certain parameters, there’s no compromise on the quality. Mostly, Yarra Falls is about delivering a unique experience – local flavours, a little history and a sense of place, set to the trickling backdrop of a waterfall in a building with excellent period patina. What’s not to love?