NOW EXPERIENCING:Her Bar
Tuesday: 11:30 AM – 1:00 AM
Phone
03 9997 0437
Website
her.melbourne
Instagram
@her_melbourne

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 27 Jun 2024

By
Michael Harden


The ground-level bistro-bar of the multilevel eating and drinking fun park called Her does sophisticated and fun in equal measure with one eye firmly on quality.

Why you goThere’s something irresistible about the idea of a “vertical laneway” – a multilevel building offering something exciting and different on every floor. Melbourne’s CBD has a few of them (Swanston Street’s Curtin House being the most notable) and now the freshly minted Her has joined the squad. There are four levels (so far), including a rooftop bar, a Thai street-food grill called BKK and the Tokyo-style Music Room, but the best way to take the temperature of this layered venue is at the ground-level Her Bar, accessed via a more traditional horizontal laneway. The beautiful pink-hued room is an all-day, every-day affair, opening at 8:00am with a menu that includes pastries, granola, a lobster omelette, fresh juices and Bloody Marys, and then rolls through the rest of the day with a French-leaning menu – yes, including snails – and a late-night list with a textbook cheeseburger oozing Swiss raclette cheese. It’s appealing, straightforward food, backed up by a comprehensive list of drinks that delivers quality whether you’re talking wine, beer or cocktails. It’s one of those places that feels as though it’s been around forever and, with the kind of smart approach and engaging bustle Her Bar already displays, it probably will be.
Why you stay

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself deciding to stay a little longer at Her Bar, despite all the other attractions – Thai snacks, rooftop views, DJs and good times in the Music Room – available just a short elevator ride away. With its pink-terrazzo floor, soft tan-leather banquettes, marble and timber tables, high ceilings and room-length bar sitting under a multi-panelled abstract artwork, this is one of those rooms that encourages getting comfortable and losing a few hours with friends, drinks and conversation. The service helps. It’s friendly and attentive without being intrusive. The sound levels are good, too – buzzy and music-forward to be sure, but cleverly baffled so there’s no need to lip-read. 

Then there’s the drinks list that successfully covers a lot of ground, from classic cocktails – consider the Sidecar here, a worthy rendition of the Cognac and citrus classic – to sharp offerings of sherry and beer. The wine list gathers a generous selection of wines by the glass from all over the globe: a rosé from South Africa, chenin blanc from Western Australia and sangiovese from Italy. And you’ll also want to eat – even just a few snacks such as crumbed scallop with bay-leaf butter and steak tartare with anchovy mayonnaise. But the siren song of larger dishes, like John Dory in butter sauce and roast chicken with a garlicky sauce, is compelling. Or a triumphant crème caramel might also catch your eye. Remember, you can always explore more of what Her has to offer on your next visit. 

rooftop restaurant view
What drink to orderGiven that Her Bar belongs to the tradition of big-city establishments equally influenced by France and the US, it would be silly to ignore the cocktails here. The two-page list gives equal time to classics and signature house mixes, all well made with a solid foundation of skilful restraint while adding the occasional interesting twist. The Bloody Mary, for instance, comes with pickles, the Casa Margarita with lime, agave syrup and pink grapefruit, mixing it up with tequila and Grand Marnier. Spritz fans will be happy, too, with the short list that counts elderflower, strawberries and sherry among the main flavours.
What to pair it withThe food menu here offers a little something for everybody, from oysters, charcuterie and cheese to burgers, steak and French-style gratin potatoes. The best thing? It’s all presented with an eye on quality and simplicity, making it very difficult to go wrong whether you’re here for a fortifying breakfast or relaxing nightcap.