This old inner-city pub is full of new tricks thanks to a no-holds-barred revamp by an all-star cast of hospo pros, now delivering thoughtful drinks and smart food at locals-friendly prices.
Whether $6 million can buy happiness is up for debate, but it can – and has – bought a new lease on life for the White Horse. Since the 1930s, the strikingly white alehouse has held court in the heart of Surry Hills, changing hands several times throughout its years of operation. Now, after a full-blown refurb overseen by director and industry veteran Craig Hemmings, it’s barely recognisable (and that’s a compliment). What was once the ground-floor public bar is now a stunner of a dining room – filled with art, luxe finishes and designer furniture – while upstairs plays home to a swanky cocktail bar, function rooms and a leafy terrace.
While this may read like all tip and no iceberg, Craig has put together an A-list team to bring it all to life, including executive chef Jed Gerrard (a star of Western Australia’s fine-dining scene), sommelier James Audas (also a formidable wine importer, vintner and co-owner of Byron Bay’s Bar Heather) and cocktail maestro Michael Chiem, who owns PS40 in Sydney’s CBD. Together, they’ve zeroed in on exactly what people seem to want these days and have somehow managed to keep value top of mind. To call it a pub would be a stretch, so let’s just call it what it is: a brilliant transformation.