NOW EXPERIENCING:White Horse

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 25 Sep 2024

By
Matty Hirsch


The facade of the White Horse in Surry Hills, Sydney

This old inner-city pub is full of new tricks thanks to a no-holds-barred revamp by an all-star cast of hospo pros, now delivering thoughtful drinks and smart food at locals-friendly prices.

Inside the newly renovated White Horse, Sydney
Why you go

Whether $6 million can buy happiness is up for debate, but it can – and has – bought a new lease on life for the White Horse. Since the 1930s, the strikingly white alehouse has held court in the heart of Surry Hills, changing hands several times throughout its years of operation. Now, after a full-blown refurb overseen by director and industry veteran Craig Hemmings, it’s barely recognisable (and that’s a compliment). What was once the ground-floor public bar is now a stunner of a dining room – filled with art, luxe finishes and designer furniture – while upstairs plays home to a swanky cocktail bar, function rooms and a leafy terrace. 

While this may read like all tip and no iceberg, Craig has put together an A-list team to bring it all to life, including executive chef Jed Gerrard (a star of Western Australia’s fine-dining scene), sommelier James Audas (also a formidable wine importer, vintner and co-owner of Byron Bay’s Bar Heather) and cocktail maestro Michael Chiem, who owns PS40 in Sydney’s CBD. Together, they’ve zeroed in on exactly what people seem to want these days and have somehow managed to keep value top of mind. To call it a pub would be a stretch, so let’s just call it what it is: a brilliant transformation.

What drink to orderMichael Chiem is doing excellent work on the cocktail front, nodding to the classics with compelling native twists. His Benny Blanco is a stroke of brilliance – a briny-sweet Martini riff stirred down with Never Never Distilling Co’s oyster-shell gin, vermouth, sour verjus grape juice and rosemary, and garnished with macerated grapes of all things. On the opposite end of the spectrum, meanwhile, sits a weapon of an Old Fashioned, the whisky base enlivened with white-miso caramel and banana liqueur. As for Audas’s wine list, it’s a cracker – a 100-strong collection equally split between old world and new that puts organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming front and centre. You’re just as likely to find James Audas’s own floral and forward-thinking Das Juice “Maceration” orange wine on offer as you are Yangarra’s classic McLaren Vale Shiraz – and because by-the-glass prices start at $14, and more than 20 bottles land at less than $80, you can really have a play. The generous spread of beers and spirits encourages the same sort of experimentation, too, proving you’re in safe hands no matter what course you choose to chart.
There are xxcellent cocktails at the White Horse in Sydney
A wide range of dishes is served at White Horse, Sydney
What to pair it withAn $80 shared set menu? At an inner-city Sydney joint with serious cheffy credentials? It sure sounds too good to be true. And yet it’s very much a real thing at the White Horse, and the way to go to maximise bang for buck and get a sense of the kitchen’s knack for combining top-flight produce, native ingredients and out-there flavours. That said, Jed Gerrard’s menu is varied and flexible enough that ordering à la carte holds almost endless possibilities. Pro-tip: don’t be afraid to go off-kilter – some dishes like French toast with veal tongue and Granny Smith apple, or a dessert of brie ice-cream with quince jelly might sound wacky, but they make a whole lot of sense in your mouth. And if you find yourself up on the rooftop, it’s hard to go past the next-level wagyu steak sandwich on the bar menu.
Why we love itRitzy pub renovations can go all kinds of wrong, but the team has really got this one right. From Farago Han Studio’s lavish and layered fit-out and the on-fleek uniforms to the way that even simple things like bread and butter are presented, every detail here seems to have been interrogated to the nth degree. The calibre of service more than holds up its end of the bargain, and the best bit is you’ll probably spend half as much as you’d expect and likely find it twice as interesting as others in its class.
The setting at the White Horse in Sydney's Surry Hills
Behind the bar at the White Horse in Sydney
Don’t leave withoutHave a proper look at all the art on display. Down in the dining room, there are beaut large-scale paintings by Australian artists Lara Merrett and Tom Polo, as well as 3D glassworks and ceramics by Brendan Van Hek and Kate Newby. There’s lots more upstairs, too, including an eye-catching orange piece by Ireland’s Mark Francis and a trio of small sculptural models by David Lawley and Jaki Middleton that manipulate perspective and mess with your head.
Who to takeThey may still refer to upstairs as a “public bar”, but make no mistake – this is no longer a place for sinking schooners over a game of footy in your thongs. And while it isn’t formal to the point of being stiff, it’s most definitely on the spiffy end of casual; one to keep on rotation for birthdays, anniversaries, long family lunches and intimate catch-ups when you feel like getting a little dressed up but don’t want to stretch your wallet.
image credits: Gavin Green; Steven Woodburn