NOW EXPERIENCING:Tucano’s

Expect a sunshower of tropical cocktails and fun fruity wines set amid technicolour splendour with tropical prints, a bit of Miami vibe and a good helping of disco dazzle.

The distinctive decor at Tucano's in Sydney
Why you goIf you were a frequent patron of Sydney’s club scene in the strict liquor law days of the early to mid-2000s, odds are you found yourself – at one bedraggled end of the night or the other – at a kooky little hangout called Café Lounge in Surry Hills. Thanks to its unusual liquor licence, or perhaps the gentlest massaging of whatever licence it had, it was one of the few places in the city you could get a drink on its own late at night, and virtually everyone staggered onto its doorstep at some point during a big night out. Café Lounge served its last wonderful weirdo some time during the pandemic and in its place fluttered Tucano’s, a feathered and fabulous tiki-style bar from the team behind Potts Point’s The Roosevelt. They’ve ditched the dingy bar in a cave area out the back and repositioned it so you see its full technicolour splendour the moment you duck into the doorway, also adding tropical prints, a bit of Miami vibe and a little disco dazzle.
Why you stayThe low ceilings and bunker feel of this oddball little corner of the city always begged for some light and liveliness, and thankfully Tucano’s has brought the party. Pastel cane chairs, jungle murals and fairy lights give everything a new shimmer, and every drink is a carnival in itself. The music leans modern LA funk – Vulfpeck and Scary Pockets! – and just like the Café Lounge of old things get louder and party-er as the night goes on.
The decor inside Tucano's in Sydney
Behind the bar at Tucano's in Sydney
What drink to order The drinks brief here is unapologetically tropical – sweet, fruity, syrupy and spiced. If you’re looking for something demure or delicate, you’re probably in the wrong place. On the cocktail front the squat and foamy Bitta Banana has a bittersweet Montenegro liqueur base, but for the most part the bitterness gets elbowed out by sugared waves of banana and coconut, while the flamingo-pink Princess Superstar, all guava and coconut and bubbles, is basically a Kylie Minogue concert in a glass. Even the wines play in fruity territory like the citrusy “Lemon Krush” from Edenflo in South Australia, Year Wines’ juicy Lunch Punch Rosato and Minim’s rosé with its bouncy red fruits. The theme carries on to the beers – don’t expect anything brooding or meaty. Two examples: Yulli’s Amanda Mandarin IPA and Kaiju Krush Tropical Pale Ale are both fruit bowls of fun.
What to pair it withChef Naomi Lowry, who has sharpened her knives previously at Pilu and the now-shuttered Biota in the Southern Highlands, has created a snacky, Mediterranean-leaning menu that throws flavour-packed punches designed to stand up to all that fruit in the glasses. A chunky toasted sandwich that makes a vague nod to Rome’s Trapizzino pocket enjoys a rotation of fillings – Bolognese, for instance – while the carrot and miso dumplings in a coriander dressing is the kind of vegan dish that a carnivore wouldn’t kick to the kerb.
The dining tables at Tucano's
Inside Tucano’s in Sydney
Don’t leave withoutCheck out the flamboyant decorating energy the team have put into the bathrooms – pastel green basins, blingy hardware, toucans staring goofily from every vertical surface. Also take a moment to pay homage to the building’s beautiful bones, which include heritage sandstone walls, visible in between all the pinks and greens throughout the space.
Who to take Bring anyone who remembers the speakeasy days of “old Sydney” before the city (mercifully) modernised the restrictive liquor laws. This space is a little slice of nightlife history and those who routinely made Club 77 or Candys Apartment their weekend home will hold a soft spot for Café Lounge’s makeover. It’s also a top spot for a pre-booked group – there’s a nifty little semi-private room tucked away out the back.