NOW EXPERIENCING:Tillerman
Monday: 12:00 – 2:30 PM, 5:00 – 10:00 PM
Phone
(07) 3071 9142
Website
tillerman.com.au
Instagram
@tillermanrestaurant

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 27 Sep 2023

By
Alexandra Carlton


On the outside, Tillerman is a waterfront seafood restaurant. Under the hood it hides one of the best wine lists in the city and some seriously top-class seafood-leaning eats.

Ambience at Tillerman
Why you goWhen you first approach this tucked-away waterfront restaurant in a rather joyless business-y bit of Brisbane next to the mid-renovation Eagle Street Pier, you might start questioning your choices. From a distance, Tillerman could be a soulless suits-who-lunch seafood joint, with little more than a great view of the Story Bridge to recommend it. But presumably you’ve made the trek because you’ve heard rumours about just how good the food is here, or perhaps how mind-bogglingly excellent – and enormous – the wine list is. Maybe it’s the cocktails that have made their way to you in fevered whispers or the fact these guys are the same group behind Brisbane heavyweights Popolo, Walter’s Steakhouse and Wine Bar, and The Gresham Bar. Whatever got you here, breathe easy. You’re about to find out you made an excellent decision.
Why you stay“We wanted to design things so it looked a bit like a luxury yacht,” says restaurateur Andrew Baturo. Stay with us here. Tillerman is no cheesy Below Deck redux. Yes, the bywords here are “nautical” and “resort”, but it’s all done with restraint and taste. The tables and their settings hint to the sea – a textured white plate, a Prussian-blue napkin, banquettes the colour of sand – without looking like a bad seaside Airbnb. Wood surfaces are made from luxurious solid spotted gum, and the flooring is high-quality porphyry stone. No detail is an afterthought, from the floral fabric of the cushions, which is repeated in the inlay of the menus, to the round mirror behind the drinks display that gives “ship’s porthole”. Even the Spotify playlist – Billy Joel, 10cc, Steely Dan – is titled Tillerman Yacht Rock (do a search in your app – it’s there and it’s a solid listen). Let’s call it maritime good times.
Dining area in Tellerman
Drinks at Tellerman
What drink to order

Buckle up. You’re going to need a few minutes with this wine list, which is an absolute behemoth, stretching for a muscle-straining 50 pages if we’re counting the coffee listing at the end. The cocktails have a low-key maritime tilt, with popular choices including the Mariner Martini (made with Never Never Oyster Shell Gin) and the siren-seductive Sailor’s Delight (a mix of Ketel One Botanical Peach and Orange Blossom Vodka, maraschino liqueur, peppermint syrup, grape juice and lemon). There’s also a whole page devoted to G&Ts with recommended Fever-Tree and Long Rays tonic pairings for a range of gins including Four Pillars Olive Leaf and St Laurent from Canada. 

But it’s head sommelier Stephen Hazlett’s wine list that will really get your brow fevered. A gargantuan by-the-glass list includes pours from everyone from François Crochet in the Loire Valley to New Zealand’s Amisfield. By the bottle there are four pages of Champagne and sparkling, and then whites grouped from palomino (a grape typically used for sherry) through to full-bodied and complex chardonnays and viogniers. Reds also run the spectrum from high-spirited Beaujolais to boss-energy Henschke shiraz.

Alcohol avoidants aren’t overlooked. The zero-proof cocktail list is as considered as everything else – the fresh-faced Aspen Spritz is made with Lyre’s Apéritif Rosso and lemon aspen and fennel syrup, and the Rum & Raisin Colada gets its “rum” from essence rather than the hard stuff.

What to pair it withChef Suwisa Phoonsang previously headed up Naga Thai and she brings her big bag of flavour tricks with her. The snacks are on fire, particularly the Moreton Bay bug vol-au-vent pastries and the two-bite battered cobia sandwich. Bugs make another strong entrance in dumpling form, bathed in the richest of bisques, while the inevitable kingfish crudo steps it up a notch with a fermented-black bean dressing. The pick of the mains is possibly not the one you’d immediately assume – the fish and frites are great and so is the lobster pasta, but the showstopper is the golden pompano meunière. This mild-flavoured firm fish is a terrific foil for the rich, butter-bomb meunière sauce. You’ll need a side of fat salt-and-vinegar potato scallops (AKA potato cakes or fritters, depending which state you’re from) to swipe up the leftovers.
Food at Tillerman
Make it fancyIf you want to splash out on big, high-flying bottles, Tillerman has your back. You can throw down four figures on a Methuselah (a six-litre bottle) of Louis Roederer Champagne or around $500 for a regular bottle of vintage Perrier-Jouët. There’s also a tonne of top-flight Burgundies, the odd magnum of Chianti and a showstopper red blend from cult Napa Valley winery Ashes & Diamonds. The mark-ups on all of them will make you blush, but money, eh? You can’t take it with you.
Entrance at Tillerman
Regular’s tipThe “landing” area, which sits near the entrance of the restaurant, is the most casual part of the set-up, and where to head if you’re dropping in for casual drinks and snacks, or maybe a few oysters and a couple of glasses of Champagne. At the time of writing, they have an audaciously good deal on the pass in this area: a glass of wine and three snacks (maybe a prawn tartlet with crème fraîche and salmon roe, a Moreton Bay bug vol-au-vent and a smudge of swimmer crab on brioche) for just $35.
Don’t leave withoutChecking out the sleekly understated and beautifully designed bathrooms – all solid spotted-gum benchtops, chic square tiling and panels of elegant globes. Just be careful you don’t run into your own reflection; the many reflective surfaces can get a bit “funfair hall of mirrors” confusing, especially if you’ve had a drink or two.