NOW EXPERIENCING:The Walrus

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 09 Jul 2024

By
Tomas Telegramma


The Walrus is a great little wine bar in St Kilda

Walruses don’t come much more welcoming than this one that’s washed up in St Kilda. Oysters and wine are the name of the game, and locals are more than willing to play.

The ice bar with seafood inside The Walrus, Melbourne
Why you goMarty Webster and Amy McGouldrick are serious about vino. But the best part about their new St Kilda oyster and wine bar? It doesn’t take itself too seriously. The prints adorning the mustard-coloured walls are a whole lot of fun – think psychedelic oysters and doodles of the namesake walrus – but they also set the scene. Sure, the Inkerman Street bolthole is a spot to try interesting wines and slurp some of the country’s best oysters, but it’s also a laid-back local hangout filling a void in the area. So, choose your own adventure. Marty and Amy met working at some top Melbourne wine bars, including The Alps and The Moon, so they’ve got the chops. But they also know how to show you a good time, so settle in next to the regulars and get in on the action. 
What drink to orderIf you’re indecisive, stick to the square-shaped physical menu – a tight edit of house cocktails, and wines by the glass, priced very reasonably around $13 or $14 a pop. Decisive orderers can take a deep-dive by requesting an iPad to view the full wine list. Or you can let your bartender tell you about what they do best. Oysters and Chablis – a dry, often-expensive chardonnay from France’s Burgundy region – are a classic pairing. But here the focus is on less-exxy vinos that also match well with molluscs. Like muscadet, from France’s Loire Valley, that starts at a far more affordable $56 a bottle. Cocktails keep it relatively simple, like The Walrus Martini, which does not, in fact, contain walrus; rather, Balcombe Coastal Gin, vermouth and a plump olive. Perfect. 
Wines are a highlight at The Walrus in St Kilda
Oysters are a key focus at The Walrus in Melbourne's St Kilda
What to pair it with It’d be rude not to start with oysters – freshly shucked, of course. The catch of the day is scribbled on a mirror behind the bar, but the team will run you through the selection, from Sydney rock to Wapengo and beyond, with fun facts about the farmers thrown in. Other menu mainstays include “plenty of things in tins” – the likes of anchovies, sardines, mussels and squid – as well as chips and dip, and terrine with condiments. However, cast your eye back to that mirror for the pintxos del día, or snacks of the day. Perhaps you’ll find a Gilda (a skewer threaded with the trifecta of white anchovy, green olive and guindilla pepper), or pan con tomate, quintessentially Spanish tomato bread. 
Why we love it As much as The Walrus is ready and willing to embrace bar-goers from all over the city, it’s a bar for locals, by locals. This explains why it has struck such a chord with St Kilda.  Marty and Amy live nearby, and a desire for a better neighbourhood wine bar drove them to open it themselves. Something as simple as reserving a chunk of tables for walk-ins ensures the growing number of regulars are never left high and dry. And it creates a sense of camaraderie in the bar that might have you lingering all arvo. 
Regular’s tip While The Walrus is a great time all the time, Sunday is the most fun day. Why? The team has introduced a weekly ritual when they amp up their usual offering – to the max. That means crumpets topped with crayfish, choux pastry stuffed with crab and grand tiered platters piled high with seafood of all descriptions. Drinks specials include half-sized Dirty Martinis and chilli-spiked Bloody Marys.
Specials at The Walrus include seafood platters
Specials are listed on the mirrored board at The Walrus
Don’t leave withoutBe sure to take a trip to the toilet (no, seriously). In the opening weeks of The Walrus, Marty reckons he had just as many conversations about them as he did about the wine list. They’re tucked away to the right of the bar, and it won’t take you too long to realise what’s so conversation-starting about them. “Bidet mate” is scrawled on the doors.
Who to takeFor a dynamic date night, two seats at the emerald-tiled front bar – preferably in line with the in-built, ice-filled oyster trough – are hard to beat. But go with a group and you can book out the moody, mustard-curtained dining room out the back. It’s a glorious space for strapping in, with a vintage buffet table, timber-slatted ceiling and dangly lighting.