NOW EXPERIENCING:The Daylesford Hotel

An overnight success 100 years in the making.

Stained glass windows in the dinging room at the Daylesford Hotel
Why you goWhat’s on your mood board for the perfect country pub? Beer garden? Balcony? Open fires? Heritage minus the cobwebs? Classic vibes? Some great beers on tap? Great country hospitality? Throw in an excellent wine list and some seriously delicious food and you’re describing The Daylesford Hotel. This magnificent building has loomed over Burke Square since 1913, but it has just found a new lease on life thanks to the good people behind Daylesford favourites Cliffys and Beppe. And to their immense credit, the new owners have leaned in rather than out, focusing on everything you want from a pub, serving locals to a tee and making it a destination for travellers and daytrippers all at the same time.
What drink to order You’ve gotta love the variety of spaces and options these grand old pubs offer – do you want to prop up the front bar with a Carlton, or have a crack at splitting the G? Do you want to settle in with a pint of something from a smaller brewer on tap, like a Boatrocker Miss Pinky Raspberry Sour Ale, or a Red Duck Super Normal Lager? Do you want to nab a corner of the beer garden and hit a Margarita spiked with limoncello, or book a table at the bistro and explore the wine list in detail? The glass list is a mostly local list of heroes, running from Shadowfax Chardonnay to Bespoke Syrah, passing the superb rosé Emily Kinsman makes with Heathcote fruit at ECK Wines along the way. There’s strong representation from Victoria on the longer bottle list as well (we are in prime wine country, after all), with great choices from Sutton Grange, Musk Lane, Fighting Gully Road, By Farr and Saeke with a smattering of smart picks from the wider world, most of them from Italy. It’s basically all killer and no filler, with a healthy range under the $75 mark. The non-alc picks are just as thoughtful, too – a plus for the designated drivers. You’re gonna love it.
At the bar at the Daylesford Hotel
The Club Sandwich is a highlight at the Daylesford Hotel in Victoria
What to eat The Daylesford team really landed on their feet with their chef. Rob Kabboord lives locally, is famously deep into the beer scene (he’s the brains behind The Floating Swine beer dinners), and just also happens to be the guy who ran the kitchen under Peter Gilmore at Quay, one of Sydney’s absolute fanciest fine-dining establishments. Rob’s not doing snow eggs and abalone here, though. He’s sticking (mostly) to the pub brief, knocking out perfect steaks, chicken schnitzels and pies in the bistro and pork sausage rolls, woodfired pizzas, parmas, (beer-battered) fish and chips and a heck of a club sandwich in the bar. Still, he can’t resist throwing a little jazz in there, so in the bar you can also order bisteeya (the flaky pastries from Morocco) filled with rabbit and coriander, and cauliflower fritters with yoghurt, cinnamon and curry leaf, while in the restaurant there’s also the option of fried lamb’s brains crumbed in almond, and John Dory served with beetroot rosella and beetroot, not to mention a roasted apple parfait with rum and raisin. Order up!
Why we love it This is the kind of pub reboot we’d love to see held up as a blueprint for all country hotels. Getting it modern without losing the soul, keeping it cosy without being twee, making the food pubby without feeling like it’s cosplay – they’ve threaded the needle over at The Daylesford and the result is a pub that you just want to make time for.
Make it fancyYou want it fancy? Let’s lay on some extras. A dozen oysters would be a good place to start. And yes, those lemons with them are wrapped in cheesecloth so you don’t get pips in your oysters. That’s about as fancy as things get in this life. Fancy oysters call, naturally enough, for sparkling wine, so that magnum of Bruno Paillard Champagne will do nicely, thank you very much. Throw in some fries and you’re pretty much the mayor of fancy-town right now. Another chip, your lordship?
The moody dining room at the Daylesford Hotel