The Cumberland bucks the Manly trend of sun and sea spray, offering polished cocktails and fine hospitality in a basement space with an entrance hidden in the back of an old-world deli.
Manly is known more for its corso, pier, waterslides, beach and sunny outlook than for its basement bars, but The Cumberland makes a strong case that we shouldn’t overlook them. Launched in 2019, this hidden watering hole launched with a splash – first, for being impossible to find. Tucked up an alleyway, its entrance is hidden in the back of what looks like a pretty glam deli. What awaits when the door swings open is a portal into a bygone era where sandstone, bentwood, copper and scalloped banquettes set the scene for a candlelit speakeasy that doesn’t blink when it comes to slinging a cocktail, be it a classic hit or a contemporary concoction.
It’s been tough times for The Cumberland, though, with serious flooding shutting doors for seven months in 2022, but it bounced back in style with the same sense of polish and charm still shining through. The theme also remains – a dive into the history of Sydney and its historic industries; an opening list of “19th Century County Tipples” showcases drinks that are each centred on a major export or material that was found in the corresponding area. The Bathurst, for instance, draws on gold, while the Georgiana (referring to the county between Bathurst and Goulburn) focuses on dairy and corn in the form of clarified cereal milk mixed with rum and whisky. Another section of the menu taps foraged and found ingredients from close by. Beers are pulled from copper taps, there’s a rotating selection of boilermakers, wine hits the right notes, there’s a strong classic cocktail section, and generous snacks fly down the stairs from the deli. Settle in, it’s going to be a long night.
The fun starts with finding the entrance, but once you’re inside, it really kicks in. All the guests seem happy to be in on the secret and bartenders not only know their marks (the place was started by a couple of ex-Merivale staff), they also know how to hit them. That means you can expect to be greeted at the entrance, shown to your table, and given water and menus without a second thought. They’ll talk you through the menu, steer you towards cocktails they reckon you might like, and then return promptly with drinks that over-deliver on every front, either packing an extra layer of flavour or a flourish.
Bars are about romance and atmosphere, and The Cumberland nails both. Tread the tiled or parquet floors, admire the bottle selection gleaming behind the bar, then order a cherry-scented cocktail and see it served under a cloche pumped full of smoke. The sun may be shining outside, but locals and tourists alike choose to skip the sunset and fill up this basement instead, safe in the knowledge they'll step out into the night satisfied and with a story to tell.
