Big energy, even bigger wine list – Small Town’s name belies the experience here where the menu delivers punchy flavours and the mighty drinks list by an expert sommelier invites a deep-dive.
Your best bet is to ask sommelier Christiane what she thinks will work with whatever you’re ordering, or, better yet, ask her to pour you a fun “choose your own adventure” selection. The set menu has wine matches, but she loves any chance to design your personal wine time from the adventurous old- and new-world list – with half pours if you like – even if you’re ordering from the a la carte menu.
If Christiane’s not around, the list is one of the most cheerful you’ll read – the by-the-glass section in particular reads like your BFF is talking you through her personal collection – and gives you a fantastic insight into what you’ll get in your glass.
Maybe you’ll try a glass of the Mallaluka Mataro/Shiraz, which Christiane describes as “a silky drop, super-lush and glossy”, or you could dive into a bottle of something amber (grouped into two weights: lean and clean, and rich and esoteric). There’s also an excellent sake list by the glass, and all sorts of frisky fizz – Ravensworth Riesling Ancestral from Canberra District, for instance, and Val de Combres Ghost In Ze Bottle from France’s Rhône Valley, to name a couple.
The beer selection is compiled with equal care – choices include Yulli’s Brews, La Sirène and 3 Ravens – while non-drinkers or anyone on a “damp drinking” trend can get something low- or no-alcohol like Queensland’s Sobah Pepperberry IPA or a Moritz 00 Alcohol from Barcelona.
In short, there are more options on the drinks list at this tiny restaurant than there is square footage, and it’s a delight to dig around in.
Chef Alex Delly and his team have pared back the Small Town menu a touch. None of the locality or seasonality is lost, but it’s a little less layered and flourish-y than it used to be, and there’s much more of a focus on share plates than a procession of entrees, main courses and desserts. “The menu homes in on the Mediterranean and surrounds where the food is humble, honest and full of deliciousness,” explains the blurb.
The lobster roll, neat and nuggety in its fist-sized brioche bun, is an excellent way to kick things off. Then move on to any protein cooked over charcoal – the octopus and whole prawns are mainstays of the menu, and go down beautifully with a bowl of hand-cut chips with egg and pimento sauce.
The completely separate veggo menu features treats like barbecued eggplant and cauliflower with Spanish guindilla peppers and sour cucumbers, or a spring-fresh tumble of asparagus and leeks with a raclette cheese and Béarnaise sauce.
Desserts are dreamy, too. In summer, grab anything with local berries, such as the deconstructed strawberry shortcake with spiced balsamic.
