NOW EXPERIENCING:Shell House
Tuesday: 12:00 PM – 12:00 AM
Phone
02 8262 8888
Website
shellhouse.com.au
Instagram
@shellhousesydney

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 23 May 2022

By
Alexandra Carlton


With spectacular service and food and drinks that kick goals across all three bars and the restaurant, Shell House in Sydney’s CBD has been designed with grown-ups in mind.

The Shell House Interiors
Why you goUnderstandably enough, Sydney tends to build its grand-scale bars next to the sparkling blue of its famous harbour and beaches. Shell House, carved into the old Menzies Hotel in the CBD and transformed by interiors maestros Woods Bagot, does something different. It’s brazenly, unashamedly urban, from the sultry Art Deco stylings of the ground-floor Menzies Bar to the cityscape views from the ninth-floor Dining Room & Terrace and 10th-floor Sky Bar to the lipstick-red velvet and spectacular soaring ceilings of the sexy Clocktower Bar, which is tucked into its own private space on the ninth floor. There’s a sophistication to the entire venue that proves sometimes Sydney can slip out of her sunnies and sarongs and into something much more grown-up.
Why you stay

The “shell” of Shell House is only the beginning. The trappings and trimmings are great, but wait until you get your hands on the wine, cocktails and food. Wine director Shun Eto has designed lists that vary slightly depending on the bar – as a loose rule it gets a little more high-end the higher you go in the building – and the cocktails are a proper fine time as well. 

In the ground-floor Menzies Bar, the wines by the glass are separated into regular reds, whites and rosés, and a bunch of what Eto calls “boujee" whites and reds – a solid excuse to try a Georges Deschamps Petit Chablis, say, or a Rocca di Montegrossi sangiovese. Among the cocktails, the Triple Axel – Lillet Blanc, mezcal, coconut, mandarin, thyme and soda – is a refreshing bubble of goodness that’s served across all three levels (hence the “triple”), while upstairs you’ll find level-specific concoctions such as the 9th Floor Fizz, which shimmers with whey gin and lychees, or the 10th Floor Fizz, which swaps the lychees for peach, apricot and yuzu citrus. 

And the food, the brainchild of culinary director Joel Bickford, kicks goals at every turn, from the extravagant Rangers Valley dry-aged sirloin in the restaurant to the bouncy little lobster rolls served at the Menzies Bar’s Martini Hour from four to six each afternoon.

Wine and liquor bottles at Shelf House, Sydney
food and drinks pairing
What drink to orderThe wine list in every bar feels as tight as a well-tuned guitar string – nothing has been chosen to tick a region box or just because it’s has of-the-moment cool factor. There are big-hitting classics, from premium Henschke red blends to Johnno’s Sémillon from Tyrrell’s, and then a whole trove of what the restaurant list calls “alternative fun” drops, like the cool Lark Hill grüner veltliner from Canberra.
What to pair it withLike the drinks, the food shape-shifts between levels – think burgers down the bottom and caviar up the top. The fritto misto of prawns, ling and calamari with spicy ’nduja mayo in the Menzies Bar is snacky and shareable, while the pickled mussel, cured pork and green garlic on a rectangle of toast – which pops up on all levels – is a genius little bite.
Why we love itThe staff on all floors have built up their hospitality muscles in the city’s best venues – you might recognise faces from top-drawer spots like Aria, Sixpenny and Bistro Moncur – and virtually without exception they are masters of the art of the warm welcome with razor-sharp knowledge of the food and drink they plan to put in front of you. You’re greeted with lightning speed the second you step inside the Menzies Bar, by a smooth maître d’ or the bar staff if the former happens to be more than five footsteps away from the entrance. A concierge in the lobby will guide you to the upper levels and the crew at the restaurant will be at your table to steer you towards what you want before you know you want it – “Getting the raw beef with oyster cream? You’ll want a glass of the Cordero di Montezemolo Langhe Arneis to go with that”. Service like this is special. To achieve it consistently across four venues with different clientele? Spectacular.
Terrace seating at the Shell House
Regular's tipYou’ll struggle to find a bad seat anywhere in this house, but two corners in the 10th-floor Sky Bar are worth snapping up for their staggering views alone. One is just behind the stairwell as you first enter, and gives you a Manhattan-esque view of the Sydney skyline you may not have seen before – namely, the soaring retro TV transmitter on top of the 1930s AWA Tower that is so in tune with the Art Deco surrounds it seems planned. The other is diagonally opposite, behind the main bar, in front of floor-to-ceiling windows that give viewers a sensation of near-weightlessness as you tower over the city below.