NOW EXPERIENCING:Serai

Great flavours and good times are delivered in equal measure at this modern Filipino diner, whether you’re talking the addictive snacks, bold wines or delicious cocktail concoctions.

image of dishes and drink at Serai
Why you goWhether you’re a long-time fan of Filipino food or you don’t know it at all, there’s plenty for everybody to enjoy at chef Ross Magnaye’s modern Philippines-flavoured diner Serai. For starters, this place  is a load of fun. The bare-bones laneway space helps. A former ice-cream shop stripped back to its clean-lined concrete essentials and warmed with kindly lighting and a good sound system, the room gives off in-the-know underground-party vibes, even though word is well and truly out that this is one of the year’s hottest and most delicious openings. Still, it feels like one of those places you’re lucky to have stumbled upon.  That’s confirmed as on-theme, thirst-quenching cocktails begin to arrive, followed by an array of thoroughly original and delicious food, much of it fresh off the wood-fired grill and energetically spiced. You could come here just for a drink – the list of cocktails and mocktails is accompanied by a single-page wine list that favours small producers making interesting minimal-intervention wines.  But the good-time atmosphere and the smell of wood smoke and spice in the air might make  you settle in.
Why you stayWith an open kitchen down one end giving off flash and dazzle from a wood-fired grill, a bar down the other, crowded with drinkers perched on bentwood barstools, and a noise level – from both music and the happy crowd – that’s loud but not obnoxious, the better question at Serai is why wouldn’t you stay? It’s the kind of set-up that makes you feel like you’re in the right place at the right time, especially in Melbourne right now where the food of the Philippines is starting to attract a wider audience. There are places in the city that present Pinoy food in a more traditional light, but Serai is at the cool, young, rule-breaking end of the spectrum, and owner-chef Ross Magnaye is the right man for the job – a smart operator as interested in good flavours as he is in good times. If you’re the kind of person who turns their nose up at pineapple in a savoury context or baulks at the idea of tapioca, prepare to have your preconceptions overturned – always the recipe for a great night out.
A glass of drink at Serai
Dishes plates and Drinks glasses at Serai
What drink to orderThe constantly changing single-page wine list at Serai is filled with minimal-intervention (aka “natural”) wines from both Australian and European producers that are more than capable of mixing it up with the big flavours on the menu here. That said, the care and creativity put into the cocktail list should not be missed if you want the full Serai experience. Be amazed by a list of ingredients that embraces everything from Filipino anisado wine to coconut fat-washed bourbon. The Pakwan Two Three, for instance, is a deliciously savoury concoction served in a highball that combines sesame oil-washed tequila with mezcal, watermelon agave and lime. For the designated drivers or the dry-curious, meanwhile, there are excellent mocktails such as the sweet but refreshing Pandan Soda that combines pandan leaves, lemon, cane syrup and soda.
What to pair it withIf you’re in ‘quick drink and a snack’ mode on arrival, beware: the snacks at Serai have a way of suddenly convincing you that changing your plans and staying exactly where you are is a much better idea. These small bites pack a lot into a mouthful – expect to be wowed by selat lumpia, Ross’s  take on a traditional Filipino spring roll, reimagined here as a vegan tart filled with smoked organic pineapple and a curry sauce made from burnt coconut, and topped with “caviar” that’s actually salted tapioca. Then there’s the Serai dish most likely to achieve cult status, the McScallop – a tiny bun containing a fried scallop teamed with crab-fat sauce and pickled papaya. Sensational.
A glass of Purple colour drink at Serai
image of bartender at Serai
Why we love itSerai is not the first nor only Filipino restaurant in Melbourne, but it’s a bold, fun, modern and enthusiastic version of the species. It embraces the kind of holistic dining – great food, design, drinks, music and service – that all the best Melbourne restaurants do so well.
Regular’s tipIt’s good to remember that Serai is open for lunch as well as dinner. Its current hotspot status can make finding a seat at night tricky. The lunchtime crush is less intense.
Who to takeIt’s as good a place to celebrate a birthday with friends as it is to pop the question to your main squeeze, as long as your friends or main squeeze are adventurous, exuberant and love a little hubbub with their celebratory moments.
Sitting arrangement at Serai