NOW EXPERIENCING:Scopri
Thursday: 12:00 – 3:00 PM, 5:30 – 10:30 PM
Phone
(03) 9347 8252
Website
scopri.com.au
Instagram
@scopri_carlton

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 27 Jun 2024

By
Larissa Dubecki


As Italian as it gets without jumping on a plane, this smart Carlton restaurant is the complete package, delivering an amazing and accessible wine list, swoon-worthy food and switched-on service.

drink and food
Why you goThe enormous black and white photograph of Barbaresco – the Piedmont hill town home to the famous red wine – on the back wall should give a big hint to where Scopri’s affections lie. As Italian as it gets without jumping on a plane, this smart Carlton restaurant is the complete package, delivering an amazing wine list, swoon-worthy food and switched-on service. It’s the kind of place where coats are taken and hung, tables are de-crumbed after mains and the water glasses are kept topped up – all of which will make you feel special indeed. It’s a hands-on operation for married owners Anthony Scutella and Alison Foley, who lived for several years in Piedmont and have a special affection for all things northern Italian. Backed by a core band of waiters who tend to stick around for years rather than months, it’s got heart and soul to burn.
Why you stayIt’s the classic local worth crossing town for. Behind an unassuming façade on Nicholson Street lies a slick little operation that seats only 60. Tables are draped in crisp white linen, glassware is matched to the grape variety and service doesn’t miss a beat. It all helps to make Scopri worthy of a special occasion. If you’re just after a bowl of pasta and a cracking glass of red – well, that’s fine, too.
What drink to orderThe wine list is a celebration of Piedmont’s great heroes, Barbaresco and Barolo. You can shell out some big bucks here to live your Italian red appellation-authenticated dreams – if you fancy a 2013 Giacomo Conterno “Monfortino” Barolo it’s yours for $2800 – but there are more budget-friendly options, too. Cast off to other northern-Italian wine regions including the Veneto and Alto Adige or head to Sicily on the wings of an Etna Bianco. Or you could stick closer to home with the great Victorians such as Bindi, Curly Flat, Sorrenberg and Crawford River. Wine not your thing? There’s a decent range of local and international beers, and house spins on classic cocktails include a barrel-aged Negroni and a Bellini made with peach purée.
wine and food
What to pair it withIt’s a classic Italian menu, sticking to the traditional antipasti-primi-secondi-dolci format. That translates as a simple calamari fritti, a selection of just-sliced cured meats or roasted Gippsland quail, left on the bone, wrapped in pancetta and served with the wintery flavours of mushroom, Gorgonzola and barley. It would be a crime to skip the pasta. Made fresh in the kitchen each day, the signature agnolotti del plin – little pouches stuffed with a fine mince of roasted rabbit, pork and veal and finished with a sage-butter sauce – are the stuff of dreams. Main dishes stick to a refined rustic line – goat on the bone with potatoes and peas in a white-wine sauce, or King George whiting going southern-style with a herby sour lemon dressing. Dessert? Cannoli, of course, or panna cotta infused with grappa, Italy’s firewater made from wine leftovers. 
Why we love itIt’s so Italian it hurts (in a good way), but Scopri boasts an excellent backstory with the owners’ biodynamic farm in the Macedon Ranges. It supplies plenty of the produce – the menu lists what’s coming out of the ground at the moment, whether that’s garlic and turnips or rhubarb and beetroot – and provides a nice sense of Victorian place.
Regular's tipIt’s BYO for $25 corkage a bottle, so bring your prized Barolo. It’s no wonder some of Melbourne’s more serious wine clubs regularly hold gatherings here. 
Don't leave withoutLoved the bread? Of course you did – it’s a crackingly good organic sourdough made with the kitchen’s own natural starter that dates back to 2010. Grab a loaf to take home for breakfast for $10, and add a bottle of top-quality Victorian olive oil for $20.