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Poodle Bar & Bistro

81-83 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, VIC, 3065
Phone
(03) 9086 8971
Website
poodlefitzroy.com.au
Instagram
@poodlefitzroy

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 13 Nov 2024

By
Michael Harry

A party-friendly all-rounder sporting impeccable design and serious talent in the kitchen, with nostalgic food, classic cocktails and some of the best fries in the city.

 

Why you goThis under-the-radar Fitzroy gem emerged early in the pandemic, in mid-2020, and quickly gained fans for its pop-up takeaway sandwich window, which spawned a second venue, Rocco’s Bologna Discoteca, a few doors down. The original is one smart, stylish pooch, with an impressive design-geek fitout of curved lines, frosted glass, exposed-brick walls, cool green-marble trimmings and dynamic artwork hanging at every turn. The space was formerly two buildings, now separated into distinct zones, including an Art Deco-style front bar, sleek bistro, a generous, terracotta-tiled rear patio and clubby private room upstairs. 
Why you stayArriving at Poodle is like scoring an invite to a private party: raucous tunes, tightly spaced tables, a sparkling chequerboard floor, darkly glamorous lighting, and moments of kitsch pastiche. Somehow it comes together like the bohemian home of a chic friend with excellent taste that everyone wishes they had. The friendly staff and twinkly eyed, cheeky vibe also help to make this one of the most happening spots in town.
What drink to orderCocktails are a thing here, and the Wet Poodle is the main event – a Martini made with Tanqueray and served with a pickled onion – but special mention must also go to the brilliantly named Creedence Clearwater Sourvival (a blend of Bulleit rye whiskey, lemon and bitters). Elsewhere, the list hits all the right marks, from carafes of cleanskin house red and white wine sold by the litre ($50) to a well-considered spread of rieslings, rosés and reds from Europe and Australia. Most bottles are priced between $80 and $120, targeting groups, catch-ups, dates and the Saturday night crowd.
What to pair it withNot many restaurants are famous for their Marie Rose these days, but Poodle has the gold-standard version of the retro sauce. The old-school condiment is given the royal treatment: tomato sauce and mayo, yes, but boosted with horseradish and a hint of cayenne. It’s all the better when paired with hand-cut fries – thin and crisp with loads of crunch and salt and texture. So simple, but so good. Head chef Josh Fry used to run the kitchen at nearby wine bar Marion, and his skill is impressive, here producing a menu of broadly European bistro belters that are smart and often surprising. Opening snacks are nostalgically rewarding and plenty of fun, including the much-photographed spanner crab and taramasalata vol-au-vents, the crisp, flaky pork croquettes, a flamboyantly retro prawn cocktail spilling from a Martini glass, and the adventurous duck-heart skewers sticky with tamarind. The dishes are designed to share, so come for a quick bite or build your own feast.
Why we love itThe charm of this top dog is that, despite its glossy appearance, it never takes itself too seriously. Witness the array of “Poodle doodles” framed with reverence on the walls – elaborate and often humorous sketches drawn by customers waiting for their next round of drinks.
Don’t leave withoutBuying some merch. Flip to the back of the wine list to see a range of cheeky T-shirts ($35) and tea towels ($30). These aren’t mere upsells, however – they feature designs with as much character as the venue itself. 
Make it fancyYou’ll find two excellent bottles of 2019 pinot noir from the venerable By Farr winery near Geelong on the list – Tout Près ($320) and Côte Vineyard ($380) – both an excellent showcase of how sophisticated and elegant Victorian wine can be. It’s a delicious and lavish way to drink local, and impress the table.
Who to takeOut-of-towners who want to see the “Fitzroy scene”, estranged siblings, confirmed bachelors, devoted sweethearts, work colleagues (but only the fun ones), old mates you haven’t seen in a while, or generally anyone who is up for a good time.
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Sponsor logo
In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
Authour image
Michael HarryMichael Harry is the food and lifestyle publisher at Hardie Grant Books. He was previously the editor of The Age Good Food Guide and lifestyle editor of Good Weekend.
Tags
Drinks DirectoryMelbourneParty vibesOutdoor areaRestaurantMelbourne – Inner NorthDate nightBarTop notch wine listKiller cocktailsGood for groups
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