NOW EXPERIENCING:Nomidokoro Indigo

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 09 May 2023

By
Matty Hirsch


Hidden in plain sight, this almost impossibly small Darlinghurst bar shines a light on sake rice wine and celebrates Japanese flavours with an eye for tradition and detail.

Inside the tiny Nomidokoro Indigo in Sydney
Why you goOne of the more exciting recent trends to sweep through Australian bars and restaurants has been a deepening interest in Japanese drinking and dining culture. Take Nomidokoro Indigo as an example. Not all that long ago, a minuscule inner-city joint specialising in sake and homestyle small plates seldom seen outside the island nation’s taverns known as izakaya might not have popped. Today, it’s almost impossible to get in. Some of that may be due to there being only 12 seats around the honey-coloured hardwood counter. Mostly, though, it’s because people are hungrier and thirstier than ever for inspired, immersive experiences that offer a taste of something different and a glimpse into another world – and they’ll get one here.
Why you stayThis is as close as you’ll get in Sydney to somewhere you’d stumble upon in a Kyoto alleyway. That much is clear from the façade alone with its half-open slatted timber door, minimalist signage and hallmark noren curtain. Cross the threshold, and you’ll be met with a shouty chorus of the Japanese “Irasshaimase!” welcome from the clued-in service team and a warm hand towel upon sitting down. It’s obvious co-owners Chris Wu, Tin Jung Shea and Mitomo Somehara are well-versed in the source material, and that they’ve made every effort to stay true to it, right down to the custom ceramics, which are a pleasure to hold in your hand. They’ve kept the prices at a very reasonable level, too, so you can have a proper crack at things without breaking the bank. It may be small in size, but it’s big on charm and personality.
What drink to orderYou’ll definitely find something that scratches the itch on the succinct collection of classic Highballs, fruit liqueurs (go the mandarin) and Japanese beers, but sake rice wine takes top billing here. Once you’re settled in, you’ll be presented with a big empty bottle that doubles as the menu, with the full range neatly printed on the label in order of dryness – pictures and tasting notes included. Asahi Shuzo’s Asahiyama Junmai Ginjo is an excellent starting point for beginners, balanced and crisp with a clean mineral edge. If you’re in the market for something more experimental and complex, ask the staff for help and they’ll happily point you towards an unpasteurised semi-sweet number, say, from the specials list that goes great guns with richer, more savoury dishes.
Delicious food at Nomidokoro Indigo bar
A Japanese dish at Nomidokoro Indigo in Sydney
What to pair it withFood is far from a second thought, and the flexible menu – elegantly hand-scribed in both English and Japanese – has been designed with the drinks in mind. You can keep things fresh and light with a bowl of edamame soybeans and slick cuts of salmon-belly sashimi, or delve into the richer likes of crisp-fried school prawns and creamed corn croquettes. Make the most of it by ordering something from each section, and aim for a mix of temperatures and textures to draw different flavours from the sake in your cup. However you play it, be sure to include the fluffy, mayonnaise-rich potato salad perked up with pollock roe and one of the chargrilled meats marinated in the savoury house-made miso soybean paste.
Why we love itMaking a space that’s hardly big enough to hold a Volkswagen Golf both warm and comfortable can’t be easy, but these guys make it look effortless. It’s there in the small, ingenious details like the coathangers behind each seat and the custom wooden crates for your bags fitted into the base of the chairs. It’s also there in the unfailing politeness, attentiveness and enthusiasm of the waitstaff. Not only do they know the product, but it’s also clear that they like it, and they’ll do everything they can to make sure you do, too.
Regular’s tipGiven the (very) limited capacity, bookings are not easy to come by. If you don’t manage to get one, your best bet is to rock up at 5:00pm sharp and weasel your way in before the early dinner crowd. Otherwise, cross your fingers and hope that other walk-ins haven’t snagged the two outdoor tables or the squeezy, standing-room alcove out back.
Who to takeFor best results, pick a pal who’s willing to forgo some personal space for a knockout bar experience. In other words, someone who won’t mind shuffling sideways to make it to their seat or rubbing knees and elbows with the people next to them all night. And be sure it’s just one pal – conversation between more than two people will prove tricky at the counter, and the quarters are just that bit too close for a first date. Better to save it for the second one.