NOW EXPERIENCING:Nina’s Bar & Dining

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 09 Jul 2024

By
Daniela Frangos


Nina's is a neighbourhood bar next to a cycle path in Melbourne

This laid-back newcomer nails the neighbourhood-bar brief with an approachable and considered wine list, a bunch of fun cocktails and a joyfully nostalgic food menu.

Interiors at Nina’s Bar & Dining in Melbourne
Why you goThere are neighbourhood bars, and then there’s Nina’s, so embedded in the community it feels like it’s been there forever. Maybe it’s the adjacent bike path, humming with locals and making for prime people (and dog) watching. Maybe it’s the setting within a Nightingale apartment building, which has a built-in cast of regulars, plus a beehive and rooftop garden for chef and co-owner Shae Van Stebbing to take advantage of (honey from the former might be turned into a signature honey cake, served with sour-cream ice-cream; the garden’s heirloom tomatoes might come ferried on Little Cardigan shokupan milk bread alongside peach and ricotta). Or maybe it’s the laid-back but attentive service from restaurant manager and co-owner Hayley Williamson, who’s likely to recommend a glass by one of her Victorian winemaking friends or a chenin from France’s Loire Valley. The duo is embracing the neighbours, too, with bread from Iris the Bakery, beer from Temple Brewing, coffee from micro-roaster Bench, and produce from Russel’s Fruit & Veg (as well as Keilor’s organic-certified Days Walk Farm). 
What drink to order

In keeping with the neighbourhood-bar vibes, Hayley’s wine list tries to stay affordable for repeat visits, with most of the wines by the glass hovering around the $12 to $14 mark. The mix leans on her faves – alternative Italian varieties, Champagne and riesling – but she’s particularly partial to a chenin blanc (evidenced by the tattoo on her wrist). Chenin is always available by the glass,  and you can also order drops by the carafe or half-glass. Victorian representation includes newcomers like Place of Changing Winds, Kerri Greens and Mise en Place. The through-line? Intervention is minimal, by winemakers who care deeply for the land they work on. 

Wines aside, there’s a bunch of fun cocktails that go beyond the staples: cue the house Martini (which uses manzanilla sherry in place of vermouth) and the retro Blue Monday (matching the blue decor with Alizé fruit liqueur, vodka and absinthe). There’s also a range of produce-forward cocktails, like Nina’s Spritz, which mixes Japan’s sake rice wine, apple, honey and thyme, and What’s Golden? made with whisky, golden beetroot, honey and ginger. Or keep it alcohol-free with a Brunswick-brewed Monito Mate or a house-made soda with sweet-sour charred pineapple or fresh rhubarb and cucumber.

A line-up of wines at Nina's Bar & Dining in Brunswick
Oysters, pickled vegetables and other snacks at Nina's Bar & Dining
What to pair it with Shae Van Stebbing’s menu has a hint of Women’s Weekly flair, with retro recipes like oysters with Worcestershire sauce, pickled vegetables with house-made “Vegemite” (made from leftover bread that’s soaked overnight, then fermented), potato gem-like corn, leek and French Comté cheese croquettes in chilli-spiked cream, and a dry-aged pork cutlet with a sweet and sour pineapple bacon glaze inspired by the forgotten classic ham steak and pineapple (Shae’s mum’s favourite dish as a child). You might also find charred shishito peppers with lemon aïoli, golden-beetroot tartare with horseradish and crisps, and marinated Spring Bay mussels served with zucchini and grilled bread – perfect for snacking with a glass of wine in hand as the sun sets behind the adjacent train station. Don’t sleep on the specials, though, which make use of the rooftop garden, with the likes of radishes, beetroot, leeks, spring onion and rainbow chard.
Why we love itThere’s a very welcome happy hour between 3:00pm and 5:00pm from Thursday to Monday. We’re talking $10 cocktails, $10 wines and $10 snacks, such as curried egg served on Little Cardigan shokupan bread. The price is right.
Regular’s tipTake a seat next to the large open window for a view of the buzzing bike path, or snag a seat outside at prime time: golden hour. Otherwise, make like the locals and head there on Mondays for pasta night, when you can score a veg-friendly bowl of pasta (three-cheese cannelloni or gnocchi with vodka sauce, say) and a glass of wine for $35.
Who to takeBring the housemates, bring a date, bring your mum for a hit of nostalgia for her old dinner-party recipes – heck, bring the dogs. Anyone’s welcome at this laid-back spot. Did we mention it’s conveniently located on a bike path? Stop in for a drink and a snack post run or ride.
Enjoying drinks and snacks at Nina's Bar & Dining in Brunswick