NOW EXPERIENCING:Mjolner Sydney

With a Nordic theme inspired by Thor’s mystical hammer, Mjølner pulls off that rare trick of committing to its shtick while providing great food, better drink and pitch-perfect atmosphere.

Image of Lady bar tender at Mjolner
Why you goSydney has seen so many themed bars in so many guises come and go, but very few have taken inspiration from Norse mythology. In fact, there’s just one, Mjølner, which opened in a Redfern basement in 2017 and is still going as strong as the wielder of the mythical hammer it’s named after. It could have been a gimmick or a passing novelty, but Mjølner’s enduring success is down to the fact it commits to the bit entirely. This isn’t a den with the odd plastic Viking helmet strung up around the place. Instead, it’s a place where as soon as you swing open the heavy wooden door and descend the staircase, you’re struck by the raw brick and bare floors, dark woods, iron fixtures, and antlers and weaponry mounted on the walls. There’s carved sheep horns, flickering candles and fur and leather aplenty. And while the setting may seem to steal the show, what’s made Mjølner so enduring – and led to a successful second venue in Melbourne – is the drinks are top level, and the menu, centred around bird, beast and fish, is made to match. As much as the focus might be on the decor and atmosphere, it’ll be the food and drink that keep you coming back.
Why you stay

The commitment is real. Your server might have their hair braided and make-up done as though they’re straight from the set of Vikings. That sparkling mead you ordered will come out in an ornately carved drinking horn mounted on a custom stand. And as you cast your eye towards the chefs carving hunks of slow-roasted meats, you’ll likely spy an axe, rusted sword or wooden shield mounted on the wall by your table. It’s easy to get swept up in the spectacle, especially when epic tracks like ‘The Path to Valhalla’ or ‘Ragnarök’ are on rotation. 

The main reason the crowds keep coming, though, is that its operators, the Speakeasy Group, behind such storied bars as Eau-De-Vie and Nick and Nora’s, not only know their product but back it up by making sure the drinks are just as sharp as the setting. Rest easy knowing you’re in good hands, and stick around for another round worthy of a Norse warrior – the gods have your back. As the line on the menu says, “May Odin give you knowledge on your path. May Thor grant you strength and courage on your way. And may Loki give you laughter as you go.”

Drinks at Mjolner
Food at Mjolner
What drink to order

It’s cocktails here above all, the menu ranging from refreshing apéritifs (in a section aptly named Sharpening the Axe) through to Berserkers – dark, herbaceous concoctions designed to help you digest and recalibrate. Start, though, with a Northern Lights, and taste how the bartenders add a sweet hit of iced riesling to a gin base, then spin the whole thing in a refreshing direction with the addition of sorrel and malic acid, and add a hint of elderflower for floral scent. 

If mixed drinks aren’t so much your thing, pick the Son of Odin sparkling mead, made by Stone Dog Meadery. Not only does the fermented-honey drink pack sweet fragrance, it’s served in one of Mjølner’s polished drinking horns. Picture yourself in a wintry mead hall, charge your horn, and knock one back in honour of Odin. Then, of course, there’s the 400 whiskies that Mjølner stocks. Download the app, and scroll through for guidance on everything from weight to smoke to peatiness.

What to pair it withThere’s the restaurant side, which specialises in all things bird, beast and fish – pork belly with buttermilk cream, say, or beef short-rib with whisky glaze – but for bar snacks, expect protein-heavy bites fit for a berserker, albeit one with a refined palate. Oysters garnished with green apple and seaweed, classic gravlax cured salmon with seeded rye, radish and sour cream, and venison tartare grace tables. It’s the roasted bone marrow, however, that packs the most punch. Enjoy it on grilled sourdough, then when you're done add a Highland Park “luge”, which sees the staff blowtorch the bone to melt the fat, then pour a shot of whisky down its length into your waiting mouth.
 drinks at mjolner
image of glass at Mjolner
Why we love itThis is somewhere to submit to the spectacle and be swept along with it. Spy the helmets in the glass cabinets, ogle the rusty broadsword on the wall, lounge in the fur-lined booths in the restaurant and carve into roasted birds with handmade knives or perch at the wooden bar and charge your horns. Every detail here has been carefully considered. What’s most appealing, though, is that as much as the theme is a drawcard, it’s the follow-through that sells it – always polished, always charming and most of all delicious.
Don’t leave withoutTake a sip out of the namesake Mjølner, Thor’s mythical hammer. Its intricately carved metal head is attached to an ornate wooden handle, the weapon sitting proudly as it waits to be picked up. But instead of being wielded in battle, it will be used by staff to pour shots for you to imbibe and feel the might of Valhalla. Once you’ve drunk your fill, consider splashing out on a custom-made drinking horn to take the experience home with you.
Who to takeObviously fans of Thor, Vikings or The Northman will all get a kick out of the novelties, so if they’re not across what’s happening here, now’s the chance to introduce them. Short of that, Mjølner’s softly lit intimate setting means a date here isn’t a bad shout, but equally it’s a venue that lends itself to working up an appetite with horns of mead and good conversation before sating it with a feast at the restaurant. Thor is the god of thunder and lightning after all, so expect sparks to fly, no matter the occasion.
image of interior at Mjolner