NOW EXPERIENCING:Mary Mary

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 09 Jun 2022

By
Luke Slattery


Find the “secret” entrance to Hobart’s most glamorous bar, a richly textured speakeasy of convict-quarried sandstone, low-lit corners and a storied drinks list.

Why you goMary Mary is a new bar with all the character of a 180-year-old colonial speakeasy. The masterful heritage restoration of the 1840s St Mary’s Hospital, exposing convict-era sandstone walls and a parquetry floor assembled from century-old timber found in the rubble, is just one of many intrigues at Hobart’s most glamorous bar. There’s the “secret” entrance, the curious strong-room wall of heavy iron (it’s rumoured to have once served as a morgue), the low-lit corners and velvet upholstery perfect for romance and clandestine exchanges. And it’s at the heart of The Tasman, the $50 million five-star Marriott hotel in Hobart’s heritage Salamanca precinct.
Why you stayCome for the film-set styling, stay for the attention of bar manager Ronán Kavanagh and his thoughtfully conceived and mixed cocktails. And stay longer for the deep comfort of plush studded-leather banquettes, gas-fuelled log fireplaces warming the bar and snugs, and the flattering shadows cast by smouldering lights reflected in dark timber. Has heritage – particularly Tasmania’s dark heritage – ever been so beguiling? There’s also a sense of fun. While the public entrance to Mary Mary is discreet – facing the walled St David’s Park, still bearing 19th-century headstones from its days as the colony’s first cemetery – the entrance from the hotel is secretive. Past an eerie old coal chute (destined to become a spirits library), a cobbled alley leads to an unmarked door, with a small orange-resin sign the only clue to the bar’s presence. It adds to the drama of arrival and the sense of discovery.
What drink to orderKavanagh is no stranger to the classics – he makes a textbook Martini – but his cocktail list is winningly laced with Van Diemen’s Land flavours. The island’s produce and craft traditions are celebrated throughout the hotel, and likewise at Mary Mary you’ll find local expressions of traditional drinks such as Charles Oates apple brandy – as the former head distiller at Huon Valley cidery Willie Smith’s, Kavanagh has an affinity with Tasmania’s favourite fruit – a raspberry apéritif made by Hobart-based 7K Distillery, vermouth by Hughes & Hughes from Flowerpot, and fresh heirloom apple juice from Our Mates’ Farm in Geeveston. Derwent Valley cherries feature, too, partnering with Hobart’s Forty Spotted Gin in the Bramble, while a dram of whisky is likely to be a Lark-distilled special-edition single malt.
What to pair it withThe short, straightforward menu covers oysters from Boomer Bay, cured meats from Mount Gnomon and a roll-call of good local cheeses – perhaps soft goat’s-milk cheese from Tongola, Grandvewe sheep’s-milk blue, and raw cow’s-milk hard cheese from the Bruny Island Cheese Company. Just beyond the strong-room door is the hotel’s Italian diner, Peppina, if these starters pique the appetite.
Tasmanian Almanac book on table with apple and apple wine bottle
Why we love itStyle, taste and loads of money are evident in Mary Mary’s good looks, but it’s the combination of the richly textured interiors, a drinks list crafted with care and a genuine sense of welcome that makes Mary Mary so memorable. The venue’s unique history is worn lightly, steering clear of ye olde colonial notes. For a tangible sense of time-travel, enjoy your highball beside the honey-hued sandstone wall, scarred with dramatically down-lit pick marks left by the convicts who quarried the stone. And note the unearthed household objects found during restoration – stone smoking pipes, bottles, porcelain shards – and displayed in a cabinet.
Who to takeThis is a place to talk rather than shout, so bring anyone you’d like to know better – it’s as good for a date night as business, a civilised drink with friends or for impressing interstate visitors. The bar’s string of rooms creates a semblance of privacy (two semi-private rooms can be booked for events) for after-work gossip and late-night schmoozing.