NOW EXPERIENCING:Little Felix

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 14 Jun 2022

By
David Matthews


This glamorous 1920s French-themed bar in the CBD swoons with sophistication and brings it home with classic cocktails, top-notch snacks and knockout Gallic wines.

interior of Little Felix
Why you go

There’s the glamorous, gleaming brasserie Felix, which specialises in French bistro fare, then there’s its next-door sibling, Little Felix. A relative newcomer compared with the original, Little Felix focuses on the drinks first, then matches them with classic French snacks designed to share. This is the kind of place to settle in and soak up the ambience while you enjoy a floral, fizzing French-inspired cocktail and graze on oysters, luxe pâté-like foie gras and a daily choice of cheeses. 

And what ambience. It’s all about 1920s Parisian glamour here, so the small tables are dressed with linen and ornate lamps, booths are leather and chairs are coated in green velvet. Around the room, gilded mirrors line the walls, brass accents abound and a dark marble bar is loaded up with more fruit, French cheese and flowers than you can shake a still life at. This is a Merivale venue, so the details make it, from the fridge holding magnums of Champagne and French wines to the jungle prints decorating the walls (here’s a toucan among the undergrowth, there’s a panther lounging on a tree branch). Step inside and step into a different time and place, one that oozes class without ever getting stuffy. It helps that the drinks are pitch-perfect.

 

Why you stayLittle Felix is all about escapism. A night here whips you back a hundred years to the fabled Parisian hotel bars of the 1920s when the City of Light was a hub for writers, poets, artists and musicians, all of whom knew how to have a good time. It starts with the glamorous staff, the sharply dressed customers and the jazz on the stereo, and runs all the way through to expertly balanced cocktails, stirred down and shaken up by a bar team who really know their stuff. Dip into the French-themed list or the bartenders’ picks and you’re guaranteed to be well covered, but these guys know their way around a classic, too. After a French 75? An ice-cold Martini? Ask and you shall receive.
What drink to orderSignature cocktails change seasonally, but there are some mainstays on a menu that channels a French connection without ever getting bogged down in the fine print, meaning drinks are as likely to feature Australian rhubarb liqueur or Goslings rum from Bermuda as they are to go full Parisian. But if there’s one cocktail that should be your first port of call it’s surely the Burgundy Spritz. Riffing on the Italian classic, it adds Chablis and sparkly Veuve Clicquot Champagne to gin and Earl Grey tea, then freshens it all with a drop or two of lemon oil. A little bit Italian, a little bit French, a whole lot of refreshment.
What to pair it with Little Felix, like its older sibling, is all about classics. Start with a platter of rock oysters and a plate of olives dressed with citrus and fennel pollen, then move on to steak tartare on toast and add a side of fries with shallot-tarragon mayonnaise for good measure. Really, this is a place for small bites where you might share plates of French cured sausage, France’s luxe pâté-like foie gras or cured ham (with cornichons and pickles, of course), or take your pick from the cheeses artfully laid out on the counter.
Regular’s tipYou can’t go wrong with where you sit here, but the real trick is getting a seat at all. Turn up without a booking and odds are you’ll be looking for somewhere else to spend your evening. It’s not revolutionary, but it pays to jump online and nab a spot in advance. If you haven’t planned ahead, try arriving when the doors swing open at 3pm on Fridays and you might just get lucky.
Sitting Interior of Little Felix
Make it fancyThis is where Little Felix comes into its own. Merivale’s French master sommelier, Franck Moreau, had a field day stocking the fridges with wine from his home country. But unlike the group’s other venues, everything here is available in magnums. That means, if you’re lucky, some by-the-glass options might come out of a 1.5-litre bottle (the extra volume, they say, helps the wine age better), or if you’re feeling flush you can splash out on a whole one yourself – perhaps a white from the Loire Valley, a top-tier roussanne from the Rhône Valley, or a baller bottle of rosé from Aix-en-Provence. If you want to flex hard here, it pays to bring a crowd.
Who to takeBeing in the heart of the Ivy Precinct means Little Felix is prime territory for pre-dinner drinks as much as it’s a post-work hangout for corporate types looking for somewhere fancy to spend their pay cheques. But, really, with the flattering lighting, intimate ambience, soft furnishings, sultry tones and Parisian flair, if you’re not bringing a date you’re not doing it right.