NOW EXPERIENCING:Kura

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 10 Oct 2023

By
Larissa Dubecki


Treat Kura as a bar or a restaurant, but be sure to explore the standout sake list while you snack on a few yakitori sticks or something more robust from the charcoal grill.

Japanese bar and restaurant at melbourne
Why you goKura’s cool. Cool as in “I know this great little place” cool. For anyone in thrall to the casual yet studied Japanese approach to dining and drinking (not necessarily in that order) this robata-grill and sake specialist is impossible to resist. Further acting in its favour is the fact it doesn't have to shout to be heard. In fact, everything about Kura is subtle in that oh-so-Japanese way, beginning with the entrance: look for the paper lanterns hanging discreetly in an alcove, and head on in.
Why you stayHad a busy day? Feeling overwhelmed with the world? Here’s your antidote. The grooves are mellow, the long, dark, skinny room soothing in a way that understands that less is more so long as it’s done with an arty eye. The nature of the Kura beast means you can treat it as a bar or a restaurant or something in between (a few yakitori sticks and a glass of something cold, perhaps?). There’s no pressure and no fuss. 
What drink to orderStart with the sake list compiled by co-owner Kelvin Low, which has a claim to one of the city’s best across the spectrum of flavours, polishing grades and price tags (look to the premium sake section for Japan’s answer to Bordeaux). The waiters are happy to explain anything, including serving temperature – most drops are served chilled in a wine glass to maximise the aromas while others are deemed best served warm or at room temperature – but there’s also a nifty diagram on the menu placing the list's offerings on an axis of rich, light, dry and fruity. You’ll find sake’s handmaidens, umeshu (Japanese liqueur) and shochu (a distilled spirit), well represented, and cocktails similarly delve into the world of Japanese spirits – look no further than the premium craft Haku vodka, made with white rice, which proves a star player in a Ruby-Grapefruit Highball.
drinks at Kura
food served at Kura
What to pair it withThere’s not only serious sake expertise on display here. Chef and co-owner Ken Ibuki has worked at Nobu and Chef’s Table at Kisumé, and displays some mean skills with the binchotan-charcoal grill. Things grilled on sticks – yes, we’re talking the not-to-be-missed yakitori selection – include bouncy tsukune, aka chicken meatballs, with a gooey slow-cooked onsen-egg dipping sauce, swatches of beautifully rendered pork belly and meltingly good eggplant. The lava-hot charcoal also lends its lick of smoke to blistered edamame soybeans and corn cobs to slather in an addictive miso butter, and pork loin with charred-carrot purée and black-garlic miso. Off grill, sashimi goes well beyond the typical Melbourne line-up of kingfish, salmon and tuna. Depending on the markets, you could be getting acquainted with orange roughy, sweet-fleshed alfonsino or big-flavoured bonito.
Don’t leave withoutNot telling you what to order (we’re not that bossy), but visiting Kura without getting down with the sake list would be like heading to the Louvre without seeing the Mona Lisa. It’s the best possible place for sake novices to get their L-plates, thanks to the expert advice of Kelvin Low and his dutiful offsiders, or to head deeper into expert territory. 
Why we love itThe food and drinks are great, but there’s also an undeniable X-factor about Kura. The tucked-away location could be in Tokyo or Osaka rather than Brunswick East, and the sleek minimalist interiors are equally transportive. But above all, it’s fun with a capital F, with a young crowd embracing their escape from the daily grind.
Regular’s tipIt gets busy, so to avoid having your hopes dashed, make sure you arrive early to grab a seat at the bar overlooking the glow of the binchotan and the chefs’ charcoal dance. They’re the prime seats for couples, while for solo diners it’s dinner and a show.
bar counter at Kura
Make it fancyKelvin Low hasn’t just made his reputation with sake; as befitting a guy who also owns Elysian Whisky Bar, he’s stacked the list with a range of Japanese whiskies going straight for the jugular of bona-fide boffins. Case in point: here’s your chance to taste Suntory’s aromatic and rounded 21-year-old Hibiki blend of Yamazaki and Hakushu malts with long-aged Chita grain whiskies. Kanpai!