NOW EXPERIENCING:Curious

This glam underground bar is known for its whimsical cocktails inspired by Melbourne’s obsessions with fashion, coffee and art, served with a side of cracking snacks.

Cocktail glass at the Curious, Melbourne
Why you goIt’s hard to think of another bar in a five-star hotel that’s been as instantly embraced by Melbourne as Curious. Perhaps because there isn’t one. Curious breaks the mould by being deliberately extra. The design is a nod to the fevered imagination of Lewis Carroll, hence the fake clock-shop entrance and the dark stairs tumbling down to a caterpillar-shaped room of oblique timber ribs and gleaming stone, mirrors and glass. In case you miss the whole Alice-in-Wonderland reference, there are rabbit sculptures everywhere.
Why you stay

Take a seat on the sinuous, French-blue banquette and admire the way the seductive lighting and glossy surfaces distort the sense of perception (again, very Alice in Wonderland). Sassy staff will appear from nowhere to take your order, always armed with knowledgeable recommendations. 

The menu runs to 26 pages – only two are for food but the snacking is terrific here. 

Settle in and let the Hôtel Costes-style playlist work its shoulder-easing, foot-tapping magic. Dancing’s not officially encouraged, but on a Friday or Saturday night, if the mood takes you, feel free to bust a move. Blame it on the boogie.

Cocktail glass
Cocktail glass at The Curious bar
What drink to order

Curious is a cocktail-forward affair. House creations are sorted into very Melbourne categories – art, fashion, coffee – but, despite some laboured allusions, they pass the taste test. The most popular is the Glinda, named after the good witch in The Wizard of Oz. 

In her W incarnation, Glinda is an eye-catching potion of rosella-infused vodka with jasmine-tea syrup and apple juice, topped with a shimmering balloon of lavender smoke. She’s pretty and photogenic – hence her popularity with the Insta crowd. 

In the coffee category there’s an ironic Blend 43 of Tasmania’s Cape Grim 666 vodka steeped in roasted hemp and mixed with a house liqueur made with spent coffee grounds, Seppeltsfield apera sherry and cold-brew coffee. It comes with a chocolate spoon for stirring and seasoning. 

Staff can also mix a next-level Negroni, a zero-alcohol zinger or pour one of eight craft beers from the taps. 

The wine selection is mostly Australian and largely Victorian. It’s a roll-call of leading regions and varieties – Coonawarra cab sav, Yarra Valley pinot noir – that tops out at Penfolds shiraz, premier-cru Burgundies and a dilemma of Champagnes.

What to pair it with

Best come to Curious with an appetite. Dishes, served on smart crockery by cult Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester, cater to most cravings – wagyu sliders, eggplant tacos, guacamole served with chickpea crackers that are like Schmackos for humans. A raw-bar section serves the likes of seared tuna tataki and Mexican-style kingfish ceviche, and cheese and charcuterie boards are offered for maximum return on minimum thought.

Plates such as the beef tartare cut with pear, miso and sesame oil and served with crackers of seaweed and puffed rice make you sit up and take notice of the kitchen talent here. Ditto the lightly battered Moreton Bay bugs scattered with fresh chilli and coriander and paired with kimchi mayo. Order two serves for double happiness.

Regular's tip

Curious has been such a success that even house guests can have trouble getting in. Click ahead to reserve a table. Fridays and Saturdays book out early but – here’s a tip – bookings go live at Open Table at 3:00pm each day (it’s 5:00pm earlier in the week) so log in early to secure a seat. 

Between Wednesdays and Saturdays a DJ spins the discs. Wednesday is vinyl night and tends more towards funk and house. 

Drink at the Curious bar, Melbourne
The Curious bar, Melbourne
Make it fancyThe surest way to impress is to order a $95 grand platter from the raw bar laden with oysters, seared tuna tataki, Peruvian-style raw salmon, Yarra Valley caviar, kingfish and more. Pair it with a bottle of Champagne – vintage Cristal if your budget can bear it – or a bracingly mineral sauvignon blanc from France’s Sancerre region.