This glam underground bar is known for its whimsical cocktails inspired by Melbourne’s obsessions with fashion, coffee and art, served with a side of cracking snacks.
Take a seat on the sinuous, French-blue banquette and admire the way the seductive lighting and glossy surfaces distort the sense of perception (again, very Alice in Wonderland). Sassy staff will appear from nowhere to take your order, always armed with knowledgeable recommendations.
The menu runs to 26 pages – only two are for food but the snacking is terrific here.
Settle in and let the Hôtel Costes-style playlist work its shoulder-easing, foot-tapping magic. Dancing’s not officially encouraged, but on a Friday or Saturday night, if the mood takes you, feel free to bust a move. Blame it on the boogie.
Curious is a cocktail-forward affair. House creations are sorted into very Melbourne categories – art, fashion, coffee – but, despite some laboured allusions, they pass the taste test. The most popular is the Glinda, named after the good witch in The Wizard of Oz.
In her W incarnation, Glinda is an eye-catching potion of rosella-infused vodka with jasmine-tea syrup and apple juice, topped with a shimmering balloon of lavender smoke. She’s pretty and photogenic – hence her popularity with the Insta crowd.
In the coffee category there’s an ironic Blend 43 of Tasmania’s Cape Grim 666 vodka steeped in roasted hemp and mixed with a house liqueur made with spent coffee grounds, Seppeltsfield apera sherry and cold-brew coffee. It comes with a chocolate spoon for stirring and seasoning.
Staff can also mix a next-level Negroni, a zero-alcohol zinger or pour one of eight craft beers from the taps.
The wine selection is mostly Australian and largely Victorian. It’s a roll-call of leading regions and varieties – Coonawarra cab sav, Yarra Valley pinot noir – that tops out at Penfolds shiraz, premier-cru Burgundies and a dilemma of Champagnes.
Best come to Curious with an appetite. Dishes, served on smart crockery by cult Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester, cater to most cravings – wagyu sliders, eggplant tacos, guacamole served with chickpea crackers that are like Schmackos for humans. A raw-bar section serves the likes of seared tuna tataki and Mexican-style kingfish ceviche, and cheese and charcuterie boards are offered for maximum return on minimum thought.
Plates such as the beef tartare cut with pear, miso and sesame oil and served with crackers of seaweed and puffed rice make you sit up and take notice of the kitchen talent here. Ditto the lightly battered Moreton Bay bugs scattered with fresh chilli and coriander and paired with kimchi mayo. Order two serves for double happiness.
Curious has been such a success that even house guests can have trouble getting in. Click ahead to reserve a table. Fridays and Saturdays book out early but – here’s a tip – bookings go live at Open Table at 3:00pm each day (it’s 5:00pm earlier in the week) so log in early to secure a seat.
Between Wednesdays and Saturdays a DJ spins the discs. Wednesday is vinyl night and tends more towards funk and house.