NOW EXPERIENCING:Cookie

A Melbourne pioneer with a huge drinks list that stops at all stations and knockout Thai food set in shabby-glam surrounds, Cookie is a place that brings big fun.

Why you goCookie was a game-changer when it opened in the early 2000s (yep, it’s so old it’s practically a Boomer in bar years). Part beer hall, part Thai restaurant, it created the kind of waves normally reserved for disaster movies starring Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson. Years have passed, but familiarity hasn’t seen any of the excitement dissipate. The huge first-floor space in heritage Curtin House, right in the thick of Swanston Street, remains one of Melbourne’s best, with the shabby glamour of arched windows, nosebleed-high ceilings and naked globes hanging by red cords easily standing up to the challenge of changing fashions. It’s well matched to the industrial scale of the drink and eating options on offer. The drinking choices are simply dazzling (200 beers – on your marks, get set, go!) and the Thai food deserves the constant showering of acclaim. In short, we heart Cookie.
Indoor seating at Cookie
Why you stayRevving like a Mustang straight off the lot, Cookie is a place that brings big fun. It’s got the energy of a toddler on red cordial and good looks to burn, as well as an army of funkster staff. It could all be too cool for school, but the pressure is taken down by the welcoming vibe and tongue-in-cheek design affectations of retro album covers, lace doilies and bills taken to tables enclosed inside the covers of a Little Golden Book (ah, the childhood memories). It also calls itself a disco, with DJs playing on weekends and a great soundtrack taking over the sound system at other times. And while it could coast and offer just okay-ish food and drink, the effort that goes into both is truly impressive. 
What drink to orderPrepare to be dazzled by choice across every possible category. A total 13 pages of beer translate as 200 local and international craft choices, with 20 taps supplemented by the bottled equivalent of the United Nations. Cocktails are divided into seasonals and old favourites, with special shout-outs to Frozen Daiquiris, seven shades of G&Ts and a tiki sub-section that’s as fun as they come. The noteworthy wine list is attuned to the food’s spicy punch and grouped under handy subheads (including “energetic, textured” whites and “light, bright, racy” reds. The spirits list is similarly encyclopaedic. In a nutshell, if they ain’t serving it here, it’s probably not worth drinking.
Two of the cocktails on offer at Cookie in Melbourne
Enjoy excellent Thai food at Cookie in Melbourne
What to pair it withExpect fireworks. Chef Karen Batson didn’t put Cookie at the forefront of modern Thai cuisine by being shy and retiring in her approach to its holy quintet of sweet, sour, salty, bitter and spicy. The format of small, medium and large dishes helps triage a generous menu. Kick off with cured kingfish, Northern Thai sausage and betel leaf-wrapped flavour explosions, then move on up to green papaya and crisp fish salad and stir-fried clams, and end up at five-spice chicken and roasted pork ribs. Everything is liberally sprinkled with the fresh hit of Thai herbs, while a subset of Chinese dishes bring dumplings to the table.
Why we love itPay attention, history buffs. Beyond being a seriously fabulous place to park yourself with a group of mates, Cookie is a lesson in how Melbourne’s CBD has evolved from ho-hum to huzzah in a few short decades. A pioneer of the city’s “vertical laneways”, it remains a beacon of urban renewal and Melbourne’s great upcycling ethos. The growing buzz as you ascend the steps to the first floor, then being enveloped by the full throttle of kinetic energy when you step into the cavernous space, never fails to get the pulse racing. And the architecture is amazing.
Who to takeAny self-respecting Melburnian must have ticked Cookie off their bingo card. And for those hosting out-of-towners, it’s definitely up there among the must-visit places that show the pulse of the city and leave everyone wanting more.
Don’t leave withoutCurtin House is a six-floor wonderland of sympático businesses, so give yourself time to go exploring. Crowned by the Rooftop Bar and Cinema nestled in a skyscraper landscape, there’s the Mexican food and drinks at Mesa Verde on the sixth, arty bookshop Metropolis and hyper-niche archival fashion at Dot Comme on the third, the live-music venue the Toff in Town on the second (complete with secretive train carriage booths) – and they’re only part of the 1922 landmark’s story.
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In partnership with Melbourne Food & Wine Festival
image credits: Melissa Butters Photography