NOW EXPERIENCING:Brunswick Aces

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 13 Jun 2022

By
Larissa Dubecki


The setting inside Brunswick Aces in Melbourne

Virtue is guaranteed here with no flavour sacrificed in the pursuit of a no-alcohol drinks list that spans beer, wine and spirits, making the case that going without doesn’t have to feel like you’re missing out.

Why you goYou’ve heard of the pub with no beer. Now meet the bar with no alcohol. Australia’s first zero-proof bar, Brunswick Aces caused a stir when it opened a year ago as a showcase for the increasingly varied non-alcoholic options available across beer, wine and spirits. But is it really that radical? The growing tribe of the sober and sober-curious have seen bar menus across the nation introduce drinks options that go above and beyond the dreaded juice-driven mocktail. With Brunswick Aces starting life as a gin brand (the distillery produces both a 40 per cent alcohol and no-alcohol versions), it has a good handle on what makes a drink tick. And the best news? You don’t have to drink responsibly.
Brunswick Aces in Melbourne is Australia's first non-alcoholic bar
Why you stayIt certainly looks like a bar. A good one, too. Step inside the backstreet Brunswick warehouse and you’ll find something that looks like an old-time French salon, decked out in moody teal walls, gilt-framed mirrors, ornamental birdcages and extravagant displays of dried botanicals. If the team is trying to convert people to a teetotalling way of life, or just a teetotalling evening, it’s a good start. On the drinks front, there’s enough substance here to mean Brunswick Aces isn’t just for Dry July. The staff know their stuff. There are plenty of authentic bar sounds (shaking, muddling, stirring and all the rest). And there’s plenty of advice available when you’re deciding what flavour of the cocktail spectrum to go for, whether that’s sweet, tart, sour or bitter. Just like regular drinkers, only – not.
What drink to orderYou’ll need to get your head around some new terminology. Let’s start with a “sapiir” – otherwise known as a zero-proof gin, distilled and made with the same botanicals as a regular gin and a good approximation of the real deal. Try it in a play on the Mojito with the earthy spices of the “gin” grounding the bright notes of finger lime, mint and citrus, in a Gin Sour with lemongrass syrup, or mixed with caper juice for a riff on the Dirty Martini. Other non-alcoholic spirits include Gnista floral wormwood, put to use here in a Negroni that finds that balance of bitter, spice and sweet, and Wilfred’s orange and rosemary apéritif going the sunset route with non-alcoholic wine and soda. The beer list shows how far this category has come in the zero-proof department. Solid mainstream players include Heaps Normal and Sobah Finger Lime Cerveza, with categories from IPAs and stouts to sours all accounted for. As for the wine list, here’s your chance to try out your best “pi-not noir” jokes.
What to pair it withIt’s a snacky menu that doesn’t go too far into dinner territory, but will hit the pleasure receptors with salty things such as calamari and squid-ink croquettes, fries with parmesan and truffle oil, and charcuterie and cheese platters built to share.
Why we love itYou’ve got to admire a bar that has a real passion, and Brunswick Aces does a great job of convincing everyone who walks through its doors that going without alcohol doesn’t have to feel like you’re missing out. In fact, it does such a good job of making out that it’s a conventional bar, with the service, tunes and atmosphere – not to mention some keenly composed drinks – that you might even forget there’s no alcohol in your glass.
Regular’s tipYou really, really want an alcoholic drink?  We’ll let you in on a secret: it’s not on the menu, but staff will serve you a “real” gin and tonic using Brunswick Aces’ own gin. It’s a cheeky answer to the lemon, lime and bitters that used to be the non-drinker’s only refuge. You’re welcome.
Don’t leave withoutIf you want to keep the alcohol-free party going at home, hit the bottle shop. Virtue is guaranteed.