NOW EXPERIENCING:Hotel Railway

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 19 Jan 2023

By
Michael Harden


This big pub with a shady past has been reinvented as a modern neighbourhood watering hole with impressive drinks lists that embrace trend and tradition, and the eats to match.

Inside Hotel Railway
Why you goDespite the many apartment buildings shooting up around it, the Hotel Railway remains one of the neighbourhood’s more impressive structures. Dating back to 1889, the four-storey building next to the railway line in Brunswick is, to put it mildly, large and imposing. It also has a chequered past, which adds to the Railway’s haunted-mansion first impression, but that heightens the sense of pleasant surprise when you walk into the joint and find an interior that’s light and spacious rather than cavernous and gloomy. It’s cleverly divided into separate areas, each with its own mood – from the cosy, carpeted corner bar to a clean-lined dining room and light-filled central courtyard. The modernisation of the Railway – it reopened in early 2022 after a major revamp – also runs to the drinks and food lists, which achieve an excellent balance between trend and tradition. The 12 beers on tap, for instance, embrace both industrial and craft beers, and sit alongside good lists of wine, cocktails and vermouth, all with an Australian small-producer bent. Add a unique and pleasant outside area that runs alongside both railway line and bike track, and sports screens for those who’d rather stay indoors, and it’s little wonder the Railway is packing ’em in, locals and blow-ins alike.
What drink to orderThere are plenty of tasty things to drink on the Railway’s list, including an impressive number of beers both packaged and on tap – always a good selection of sours and saisons alongside the lagers and ales. There's also a cleverly considered all-Australian wine list that embraces small producers and minimal-intervention or natural winemaking without ever getting too funky. Some of the best winemakers in the country – Latta, Chalmers, A Rodda, Thick as Thieves – are included in the range. Among the very good cocktails, classics rub shoulders with more experimental concoctions like a slightly bonkers take on the Negroni – the Beety Boys is made with beetroot-infused vodka and pomegranate juice in the mix. One of the drinks list’s best features is the vermouth section, again all-Aussie, that includes local gems such as the delicious, spicy Jayden Ong Summerbird Dry Red. There’s the option for each vermouth to be served on the rocks, with tonic, or as a Spritz. Clever.
Wine bottles at display at Hotel Railway
Food and cocktail served at Hotel Railway
What to pair it withThe Hotel Railway food menu is an exercise in box-ticking, but in the best possible way. If you’re a person who goes to the pub expecting decent steak, schnitzel, burgers, and fish and chips, you won’t be disappointed. There’s also good stuff for the vegetarians and vegans – fried cauliflower with harissa and crisp-fried curry leaves, for instance, and eggplant “meatballs” with smoked yoghurt and salsa verde. And there’s a pizza menu that runs the gamut from classic Margherita to an outstanding Middle Eastern-inspired lamb number that includes olives and green tahini. Some thrills are to be had on the dessert side of the meal, too. The kitchen at the Railway makes its own ice-cream to accompany some of the sweet stuff, such as the honey ice-cream served with warmed baklava, the Middle East’s nutty, syrupy pastry.
Regular’s tipCheck in with the Railway’s social media – different specials are available every night of the week. For starters, there’s happy hour (covering schooners, wine and “basics”) every weekday from 4:00pm to 6:00pm. Then there’s a Sunday roast that changes weekly and comes with all the trimmings, plus specials on steak, rotisserie chicken (a menu highlight) and pizza on other nights, as well as a “workers’ lunch” on Fridays when $20 will get you a pot and a burger.
Why we love itThe Railway is a large venue with many different areas and moving parts, and all are managed exceptionally well thanks to young staff who are unfailingly pleasant and efficient. It’s something of a minor miracle in these days of staff shortages – a miracle that’ll keep us coming back.
People enjouying food and drinks at bar
Inside view of Hotel Railway
Don’t leave withoutSpend some time in the outdoor seating running alongside one of Melbourne’s best-used bike tracks. It’s a prime spot for people-watching and sussing out the latest northside trends in prams, Lycra and dogs.
Who to takeWith this many different spaces, it’s hard to think of an occasion – besides any reliant on formality and hush – that the Railway couldn’t host. For those who get a little lost in large spaces and prefer more intimacy and quiet, the stylish corner bar with its patterned carpet, timber bar and lovely arched windows will be your happy place.