NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Soul

The Soul Dining team deftly delivers Korean small plates with fetching wines, showing the food isn’t just a standalone thing of excellence, but a magical match for the grape as well.

Inside Bar Soul in Sydney
Why you goPretty much every Sydneysider has their reason for having a soft spot for the Soul team, responsible for some of the most joy-filled Korean food in the city. Maybe you can’t get enough of their sticky, unctuous galbi short-rib from their refined, fine-ish restaurant, Soul Dining. Could be that you survived lockdown by barrelling through the deserted Surry Hills streets to pick up one of their generous Korean rice bowls from Soul Deli, packed with proteins and pickles. But now Illa Kim and her husband Daero Lee, along with head chef Sunny Ryu and sommelier Mae Lee, have taken on a third concept, one that fits snugly between the two existing venues: Bar Soul, which bills itself as a Korean tapas bar. The idea is to show that Korean food isn’t just a standalone thing of excellence, but a magical match for wine as well. And no, not only the obvious pairing with Asian food of rieslings and rieslings only. Korean food is complex and nuanced and it deserves drinks that are as well.
Why you stayIlla was the magic wand behind Bar Soul’s decor, namely its calm mustard banquettes and rounded wooden chairs. Perhaps loveliest of all is the Korean folk art dotted around the walls, known as minhwa. Traditionally given to newlyweds, its flower and bird motifs represent harmony, happiness, health and wealth. Illa installed the works in the space to symbolise that Bar Soul was a fresh new start for the group.
What drink to orderWhat’s genius about Sunny Ryu’s menu is that every dish is designed to go with both reds and whites – it’s just a matter of selecting the right ones. Ask and you shall learn. Any of the amber and rosé options, such as the 2021 Edan Wines rosé blend from Mudgee in New South Wales, will do a delightful dance with Sunny’s smooth soybean dip, as will a chilled red like the syrah from Victoria’s Site Wine. The traditional Asian food-riesling pairing is certainly not to be sniffed at either (sure, it’s a cliché but most clichés earn that status for a reason). The Pegasus Bay Riesling from New Zealand is a bold choice with a tonne of layered apple and stone fruit characteristics.
Wines on offer at Bar Soul in Sydney
Drinks and snacks at Bar Soul in Sydney
What to pair it withThe soybean dip is a treasure of a dish, based on a traditional Korean soybean stew. Chef Sunny has toned down the bold flavours and pungency to make it a better wine companion, and created barley crackers instead of the traditional barley rice. The result is savoury-smoothness overdrive, loaded onto a cheerful crunchy vessel. Another strong showing is the lime-green witloof boats filled with pork jowl, garlic and jalapeño with a crinkly crown of wild rice, Sunny’s clever take on Korean barbecue.
Don’t leave withoutMake a personal date with yourself to return for breakfast the next day – the acorn galette with egg and fried kimchi is an excellent dusty-day pick-me-up.
Why we love it Think of Bar Soul’s by-the-glass menu as a suggestion rather than a command. If there’s anything you like the look of on the main wine list, or on any of the bottle-packed shelves around the room, it’s worth asking if you can try one of those by the glass rather than committing to the whole thing. More often than not, the team will be happy to limber up a Coravin (wine-preservation opener) and crack it open.
bar soul sydney images
image credits: Yusuke Oba