NOW EXPERIENCING:Bar Liberty

Effortlessly cool, this Fitzroy institution lives up to the suburb’s boho reputation. The attitude is loose, but the food and drinks are tight and crisp.

Why you goThe word “Liberty” roughly graffitied over the previous tenant’s sign out the front captures the vibe neatly: lo-fi fun and just a little bit of anarchy. Bar Liberty started life as a pioneer of the neighbourhood’s small-bar scene, and if it’s now more Fitzroy-establishment than edgy, that’s not at the expense of its creative fizz. A chilled hangout attracting a democratically broad crowd, it celebrates fraternity, equality, banging tunes and all-round good times. 
Looking through the window at Bar Liberty in Melbourne
Various dishes on the table at Bar Liberty
Why you stayCan you call yourself a true northsider if you’ve never been served a drink from Liberty’s globe-of-the-world drinks cart? One of many eclectic touches, it’s typical of a place that does things its own way. While rooftop bars hog the press, there are few better places to toast the sun going down than from this white-washed room where the late afternoon rays put a warm glow on shining ranks of wine bottles. In the way of all great bars, Liberty gets the crowd it deserves. It’s a favourite hangout for arty types and hospitality-lifers, which means interesting things are bound to happen if you stay put for long enough (spoiler alert: no hardship is involved). 
What drink to orderThere’s big-drink energy here, thanks in large part to smiley chief bartender and cocktail maestro Nick Tesar. Behold one of his recent creations, The Dirty Victorian, an elegant turmeric-stained combo of Ketel One Vodka, Tanqueray No.10 Gin, Maidenii Kina, verjuice and white port. The booze list is a broad church indeed. You might swing from an appetite-sharpening glass of the house sherry, a salty, mildly oxidative collaboration with Beechworth’s Pennyweight Winery, to a Highball that brings together Johnnie Walker Black, sake and melon syrup in the tastiest of ways. And don’t go expecting to see a wine list with big-name producers. It’s all about the smart, the small and the artisan – most often organic and very often keeping intervention to a minimum.
A couple of glasses of wine with food at Bar Liberty
A plate of pasta at Bar Liberty
What to pair it withFirst some background: with co-owner and executive chef Casey Wall (also of Falco Bakery and restaurant Capitano fame) and Zac Furst riding shotgun as head chef, there’s some serious kitchen clout here to back the drinks. It’s worth saddling up for the $65 tasting menu but if you have to go à la carte, make sure you start with the bread. Not just any bread, it’s a salt-sprinkled wholemeal sourdough focaccia served hot from the oven (complete with scissors for DIY cutting). Pimp it up with kefir-cultured cream or smoked trout rillettes – either way it speaks volumes that a simple slab of carbs has become one of the city’s signature dishes. Venture onwards to a European-leaning celebration of the seasons, whether that’s a charry pork neck skewer with quince, an equally charry savoy cabbage with buttermilk dressing, or caramel-glazed cider cake.
Why we love itIf you could clone waiters, you’d want to choose the guys from Liberty as your sample stock. Service here is of the intuitive kind where you can happily hand over all care and responsibility for decision-making to the team. They’ve got a good sense of how deep you’ll want to go on a given night; put yourself in their hands and sit back and enjoy the ride.
Regular’s tipTucked behind Bar Liberty you’ll find Drinkwell, its spin-off courtyard bar. It’s everything you like about Liberty’s freewheeling spirit taken outside. The most urbane of urban beer gardens, this 40-seater ticks all the northern-suburbs design boxes, with Astroturf and a mural by local artist Kitt Bennett, whose aim to “provoke ideas about our reality without trepidation” may be easier to grasp once you’ve tasted your way through some of the pre-batched cocktails (including a top-notch Negroni) served through a pop-up hatch in the corrugated iron bar. Check it out Thursday to Saturday, 5pm–10pm.
Who to takeFriends visiting from interstate or overseas? Once you’ve shown them the ’G and demonstrated the hook turn, bring them here and revel in the glory of the quintessential Melbourne bar.
Signage outside Bar Liberty