This backstreet Japanese bar in the heart of Chinatown specialises in whisky, fresh and fruity highballs and snacks as good as you’d find in Tokyo.
If the streets outside are hustling and bustling, inside Bancho things are calm and collected, the focus on a bar primed with sparkling bottles of gold, amber and brown spirits. Pull up a stool or sit back on a leather banquette as sharply dressed bartenders mix cocktails playing off the kinds of flavours you’ll find within walking distance – Japanese, Chinese, Korean, Thai. They might spike Suntory Toki whisky with lemon or watermelon and lime, then top it up with soda for a highball, or drop a tumbler of Yamazaki Single Malt on your coaster. And despite the dark, smart setting, things never get pretentious – the vibe is chill and the mood stays relaxed.
Then there’s the food. Anyone who’s ever been to a bar or a convenience store in Japan knows that when it comes to snacks, they’re always on point. And Bancho lives up to the hype, winning out over any gold you might find on the shelves of a Tokyo 7-Eleven late at night. Think addictive edamame, extra-crisp fried chicken or pork crackling enlivened with soy vinegar. The treasures of Chinatown might be on your doorstep, but why leave when everything you need is right here, and the drinks are this good?
This is where things start to get interesting. Japan has made itself one of the world’s great whisky producers, so there’s plenty to grab your attention. You might start with different bottlings from some of the better-known distillers like Suntory or Nikka, or you could dive into some of the newer brands like Mars or Chichibu. Scotch fans will find all the classics and some extra independents, then there’s American, Canadian, Australian and – heck – even Taiwanese whisky. The short of it? Drink at least one nip straight or on ice.
But whatever you do, don’t leave without trying a cocktail. There are plenty of solid choices, such as a Japanese take on a Negroni powered with plum wine, but if you want to avoid FOMO it has to be the Popcorn Blazer, a mix of Scotch, Drambuie and popcorn syrup with walnut bitters that’s set on fire.