NOW EXPERIENCING:Foxtrot Unicorn

Hiding in plain sight on Perth’s main drag, this “bar about nothing” has something for everyone.

Why you goFor first timers, descending the stairs into this underground boozer may feel like a leap of faith. The staircase is inside a nondescript lobby, which might have you wondering if you’re in the right place – but your faith won’t go unrewarded. An Aladdin’s cave teeming with alcohol- and West Australian-themed knick knacks, the place itself is very welcoming, as are the smiling staff tending the handsome dark timber bar. The effect is a space that feels inclusive rather than exclusive, although seasoned players will find plenty of ways to do damage to their bank balance: owner Dimitri Rtshiladze, a veteran bartender that has worked at key Perth drinking establishments, has stockpiled a formidable collection of beer, wine and spirits.
Why you stayFor a self-proclaimed “bar about nothing”, Foxtrot has many reasons to extend your stay that one drink longer, starting with what’s in your glass. Conversation flows easily here, the basement decorated with framed posters, vintage beer cans and a piano by the entrance. In terms of both volume levels and song choices, the soundtrack is calibrated so guests can hear themselves drink, while the room has plenty of corners, nooks and zones for parties to settle into. (And if you’re flying solo, seats at the bar and bartenders armed with good chat ensure you’re well looked after, too.) It’s a lively atmosphere, certainly, but stops just short of a full-scale party.
What drink to orderAlthough it pitches itself as an all-rounder, many are lured to Foxtrot by its reputation for snappy cocktails. And that reputation is well deserved. Sometimes, it might be an bang-on version of a classic – a measured rye and brandy Sazerac laced with just enough anise, for instance, or perhaps or a Hot Buttered Rum that’s sweet, round and warming in all the right places. Otherwise, reworked classics are the bar’s other forte. The Big Bend highball brings smoky whisky, apple and honey together in a tall, refreshing drink, while locally distilled Swan Valley gin from Old Young’s Distillery and a quandong syrup gives the Tom Collins an Aussie twang. Management has put care into the rest of the drinks list, too: local breweries rule the taps, the cellar is packed with of-the-moment wines, and low- and no-alcohol options are also available for those “not looking to get on the sauce”.
What to pair it withThe menu isn’t what you’d describe as extensive, but it is effective, and the kitchen stays open right until closing time, which is a big plus. The small selection of nibbles (think olives, cheese, chicken parfait and other wine-bar standards) is just the thing to accompany an exploration of the cellar, while the five jaffles – four regular toasted-sandwich options including vegetarian and vegan offerings, plus a weekly special – pack enough oomph and flavour to stand up to the cocktails on offer.
Make it fancyThe staff here are eager to help you explore the bar’s liquid-based assets. In addition to a choice selection of hard-to-find whisk(e)y and other brown spirits, ask about the vintage booze behind the bar. Compared to other venues dabbling in the vintage spirit space, the bottles are snappily priced and allow guests to taste gin, amari – Italy’s famously bitter liqueurs such as Fernet Branca – and blended Scotch from the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. Otherwise, a couple of bottles of fancy fizz are on hand for those occasions that call for popping corks.
Who to takeAs a bar without a mission statement, Foxtrot Unicorn happily slots into the needs of its guests, or at least those looking for lower-key rather than loud. An address on the Terrace makes the bar ideal for a post-work drink, although the setting may be a little too casual for business chat or impressing the boss: instead, file Foxtrot under “catch-ups with friends” and “somewhere relaxed to take a first date”. It’s a good time either way.