NOW EXPERIENCING:Capitano

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 27 Oct 2022

By
Michael Harden


Melbourne's Capitano is loved for its pizzas and pastas

An American-Italian pizza and pasta joint transplanted to a Carlton pub, complete with top-notch cocktails, Italian wine and arguably the best vodka sauce in town.

The vodka-spiked creamy tomato pasta at Capitano
Why you goThere’s something enormously satisfying about a venue where you can consume vodka as both food and drink. We have chef and co-owner Casey Wall’s American heritage to thank for that. Wall is a longtime fan of Italian-American food and its staple vodka-spiked creamy tomato pasta sauce. Capitano takes the Italian-American theme and runs with it, but without turning the place into a Sopranos theme park. The terrazzo-floored front bar of a repurposed Carlton pub is now the main dining room, decked out with banquette seating, timber furniture and an excellent bar along one wall. It’s a good idea to start there with a cocktail, even if you’ve come here for a feed. 
Capitano draws a crowd for its big-flavoured, no-nonsense, pizza and pasta menu, but its drinks list is arguably just as big an attraction. The bar is also a great place to sit so don’t be surprised if you find yourself opting to stay there once you’ve settled in with a cocktail, perhaps an Olive Oil Martini (olive oil-washed gin with vermouth and olive-leaf bitters) or a Rhubi Margarita that’s finished with a smoked rhubarb salt rim. Or perhaps ask the bartender to get a little creative with vodka to go with your tortiglioni pasta tossed with that red vodka sauce. Creative drinks are the go across the list – not so surprising when you discover that the Capitano team also owns Fitzroy’s Bar Liberty, one of Melbourne’s early adopters of natural wine. At a no-nonsense two pages, Capitano’s wine list is not as extensive as Liberty’s, but it covers a lot of interesting, mostly Italian ground, while a good range of beer on tap and in tins keeps the brew fans happy.
Why you stay

Perhaps it’s the simplicity of the concept, but Capitano seems to offer a little something for everyone. Come here early evening and you’ll find family groups tucking into some of the best pizzas in Melbourne – perhaps a thick-crusted, crisp-edged square topped with pepperoni and pickled chillies, or a more conventional thin, charry-crusted round with meatballs and milky fior di latte cheese. Later in the evening the adult crowd gets a little younger, the music and noise go up, the drinks list comes under increased scrutiny and people come in for drinks at the bar and a snack or two – maybe tinned anchovies, marinated olives and garlic focaccia. 

Capitano certainly has plenty of bustle most nights of the week, but it also has great staff skilled at ensuring everyone is well fed and watered, even when the crowd and the noise swell. And the serious devotion to great drinks means the glassware is as correct and fine as what goes in it, whether you’re drinking wine, beer or a Peanut Butter and Miso Old Fashioned (a surprisingly successful combination).

Various pizzas and dishes at Capitano in Melbourne
Wine bottles on display at Capitano in Melbourne
What drink to orderYou’re probably going to eat pizza and pasta if you come to Capitano so, please, drink whatever makes you happy with those two glorious food groups. But if you’re in need of guidance, the Capitano wine list, mostly Italian numbers that haven’t been “mucked around with too much” is an excellent source of pizza- and pasta-friendly food. Ask for advice. The owners and their staff are wine enthusiasts and will point you in the right direction – perhaps to Sicily for a rosé or Piedmont for nebbiolo. You’ll also find good things to drink with Capitano’s not-to-be missed tiramisù – perhaps prosecco, which is always available by the glass, or a sour-cherry ale from Sydney’s Wildflower brewery.
Regular’s tipNeed to stay home to finish that final, troubling season on Netflix? Capitano does takeaway and a good portion of the menu (including wine and cocktails) are available for pick-up or delivery. They also have gluten-free pizza, whether you’re eating in or taking away.
The setting at Capitano in Melbourne