Host like a chef with Tom Sarafian

Melbourne chef Tom Sarafian has spent the past three years feeding people all over Australia in increasingly creative ways. You might have eaten his elevated Middle Eastern food at The Australian Open, or gelato favourite Pidapipo (where he served his favourite kebab for a day, and his ashta ice-cream was sold for two weeks). He’s had short-term residences at Flinders Lane’s famous Cumulus (the first two-week stint was so successful that he did another), Lee Ho Fook, Little Andorra, and Tasmanian wine bar Sonny (one of his favourites), to name a few. His countless pop-ups and collabs with similarly beloved chefs have formed some of the country’s most exciting food moments of recent times. 

And then there’s his cult-favourite Sarafian brand of hummus, toum and harissa – AKA jars of edible gold – which sell out all over the city. It was during his last permanent restaurant position – head chef at the now-closed Bar Saracen – that his hummus first found fame, topped with king prawns and spanner crab. Tom hasn’t been tied down since leaving Saracen in 2021, and yet, he’s a household name (at least in foodie homes) with a fanbase growing every day. His recent Trailblazer award from Food & Drink Victoria proves the point.

While we eagerly await the grand opening – locations and opening dates are yet to be announced – we spent the day with Tom and his girlfriend Jinane, another key part of the Sarafian business, in their sun-filled Northcote apartment. They showed us how they like to entertain at home, something Tom is making time for while he can. “My schedule is a bit all over the place, but I have been able to have weekends off, which has been really nice. I’m trying not to get too used to that.”

Outside of work, do you like to entertain, or are you a chef who only has one bowl and some chopsticks at home?

“I’ve definitely lived like that before, but not anymore. Now I love to entertain. It’s my favourite thing. It’s not work when you’re cooking for friends and family, it’s my happy place. Especially when the sun is shining and we’re celebrating or just catching up. I can’t help myself, I always like to provide the food for any occasion. Whether it’s at home, or at my parents’ place or Jinane’s family home, I’m always planning the food. Once the restaurant opens, there will be a private dining space, so that might be a place to have our friends and family, too.”

Best restaurant you’ve ever eaten at?

“Overseas, in Beirut, there’s a restaurant called Tawlet, and the concept is just so beautiful. ‘Buffet’ is the wrong word, but they put on a big spread, daily. There’s a different chef every day from a different region in Lebanon. They come to cook their regional cuisine, share their experiences, their traditions and food. So, there will be a big, beautiful table full of cold and hot mezze, and you just go up and they serve you, almost like a really amazing cafeteria style, I guess. You sit at a communal table to eat, so you really feel part of it. There’s also a beautiful dessert selection: freshly made pastries and fruits. For me, it’s like the best place to eat in the world. 

“Locally, here in Northcote, I love Gray and Gray Bread and Wine. The owner, Boris Portnoy, is a friend, he also has All Are Welcome Bakery, and he’s an incredible cook. The food there is always really inspiring. It's mostly Georgian-themed food, which has similarities to Armenian food, so there are a few dishes that feel close to home, and whenever I eat there I just get really inspired. It’s such a unique restaurant for Melbourne to have, too.”

Go-to drink?

“Fernet-Branca. If I see it on a menu anywhere, I’ll order it. I like it neat. Some like it chilled, which is nice, but neat, at room temp, is best. I know it can be a polarising flavour, but you grow to really love it. I’ll have one at the start and end of a meal.”

Go-to drink order when you’re out?

“At a bar, it’s nice to start with a Martini, Negroni or a dry sherry. We always get a bottle of wine, whether it’s something white, crisp and textural, or something a little bit funky and full-bodied. If I’m choosing from a menu, I look for something a bit different and unique.”

Go-to drink when you’re at home?

“Arak, which is a Lebanese grape spirit. It’s similar to ouzo, you dilute it with ice and water (usually one part arak, three parts water, depending on how strong you want it) and it’s really clean and refreshing and has a beautiful cloudy appearance.”

What’s the secret to great food and a fun night? 

“If you’ve got beautiful food, delicious drinks and great friends, then you can’t not have a good night. Music is important, too. On our recent trip we picked up lots of records to play in the new restaurants. Arabic funk, Habibi Funk, lots of Arabic music. We are obsessed with Fairuz, she’s an incredible Lebanese singer, so we bought a lot of her records.”

Do you have an all-time favourite event that you’ve hosted?

“Our Christmases are pretty epic. Everyone’s a bit of a chef or cook in my family [Tom’s father and grandfather are both chefs], so everyone always brings their best dishes. It’s always phenomenal. There is, of course, way too much food, and people hardly eat because there’s so much and you’re trying to have a little bit of 100 things. On the day, we go to Jinane’s family and they are Lebanese, so we always joke it’s like going to Lebanon – there’s about 50 cousins and uncles and aunts and everyone’s there. There’s a swimming pool, so everyone eats and dances and then jumps in the pool.” 

Which drinks do you always like to have at hand?

“Beers are great to be able to give people when you’re busy getting things ready. Stone & Wood Green Coast Lager is a great local option and Trumer Pilsner is my favourite international beer. It’s Austrian.” 

Who’s coming:

“When we’re celebrating, it’s usually with family, and at either Jinane or my parents’ home. When it’s at our place it’s usually with friends who are close by, and it’s casual and last minute. To be honest, it's usually something that happens because of the weather. We have a nice balcony and on a beautiful sunny day we’re all about firing up the barbecue and enjoying the view.”

The guest brief: 

“I’m not much of a delegator, unless I’ve forgotten something. Usually I tell friends just to turn up, maybe bring some drinks, but only if we don't have anything on hand. Once they are there though, I like to get them helping in the kitchen. I’ve learnt to love having people in the kitchen, but I’ve got a few tricks. I get them to pick herbs or put together a salad, something pretty easy they can jump into. It’s nice to have people involved in the process. It's the worst when people come in and say they’d love to help, but you don’t have anything, so I think about it beforehand in case I get any offers.” 

Drink on arrival: 

“A Gin and Tonic. Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin makes the best gin and tonics. And, of course, arak.”

The pre-dinner mingle: 

“I always make sure I have snacks out while I’m finishing cooking. Some Gilda and dressed cucumbers with harissa and toum, and some kibbeh nayeh, which is like a Lebanese steak tartare. We recently enjoyed a beautiful bottle of Dominique Piron La Chanaise Morgon that paired so beautifully with the flavours of the kibbeh nayeh. Having some food and wines out while you’re finishing cooking is great for people who come hungry, but also to give people a focus point, and move them to where you want them to be.”

The main event: 

“We try to do it on the balcony so we can look over the city. It’s such a beautiful view on a nice evening. I love cooking on the barbecue so we’ll have grilled prawns, hummus with lamb and nuts, tabouli lettuce cups, fattoush, of course, and for greens, some asparagus with snow pea leaves and za’atar. As for wine, Krondorf’s Stone Altar Old Vine Grenache is great with barbecued food. That’s my favourite style of cooking, and grenache is probably my favourite varietal. Then the Mac Forbes Strathbogie Riesling is a great match for all the sweet spices and chilli in my cooking.”

The dessert:

“I love keeping dessert fun, easy, sweet and a little boozy when we’re entertaining. Sometimes a Fernet-Branca with some oranges is enough, but if I have time I'll make one of my favourites, a dressed-up pineapple sorbet with arak and basil flavoured olive oil. The flavours of anise in the arak along with the basil go so well with the fresh pineapple, it's something a little different and memorable.”