So you want to start drinking mezcal? Read this

Think of it like this: mezcal is a vast category of spirits made from agave, and tequila is a small subset of mezcal, similar to how bourbon is a kind of whiskey, or chardonnay is a kind of wine. Mezcal can legally be produced in 10 different states of Mexico, though it’s most commonly associated with the Oaxaca region. Tequila, meanwhile, can only be made in five of those states. 

All types of mezcal are made using varieties of the agave plant, but while tequila can only be produced using Blue Weber agave, mezcal can be made from around 40 different species (there are close to 200 in total). By far the most common variety used for mezcal is agave espadin, making up around 90% of the category. But there are plenty of other styles to try, each of which lends its own flavour profile.

The other key difference is that mezcal has remained closer to its origins as a drink of villagers and artisan producers, made in a very traditional way. It’s worth noting, though, that many tequilas are still produced using traditional methods, but it has certainly become more commercialised than mezcal.

The traditional production of mezcal can only be described as artisanal. Many makers still produce it entirely by hand, and even larger-scale productions still involve traditional methods. There are three legally defined categories of mezcal production: industrial, artisanal and ancestral. Industrial refers to a more modern process undertaken by plant managers on a large scale using autoclaves, roller mills and large stills. Artisanal takes it back to the traditional techniques, where maestros mezcaleros (the experts in charge of distilling the spirit) produce quality mezcal for the international market. Ancestral mezcal is made from wild agave using only underground ovens, natural fermentation and small clay stills. This type of mezcal tends to be above 45% ABV, and is often only created for local consumption. 

Making mezcal is seriously labour-intensive. It starts with harvesting the heart of the agave plant (known as the piña), which can weigh up to 135 kilos. These are then slow-roasted to release the natural sugars, most commonly in underground pit ovens, lined with rocks and covered with leaves, dirt and cloth to seal in the heat. 

From there, the cooked piñas are crushed before being combined with water and yeast. In traditional production, the crushing might be done by hand using wooden mallets, or using something called a tahona – a stone wheel pulled by a horse or donkey (or in modern times, a tractor). Then it’s on to fermentation station as the liquid is left to sit in tanks for anywhere from a few days to a week – however long it takes for the sugars to turn into alcohol and develop complex flavours. From here, the liquid is run through a still (at least twice) to refine it into a drinkable spirit.

As we said, there are industrial mezcal producers, but most mezcals are still made in rural areas by Mexican families who don’t have access to expensive machinery – so they create their own. From a simple hole-in-the ground oven to portable rawhide fermentation tanks, the passing down of processes between generations, and the creative ways they fabricate their own equipment leads to something pretty damn delicious. 

1. Kimo Sabe Añejo Mezcal
2. Mezcal Verde Momento Organic
3. Del Maguey Vida Mezcal
4. Perro De San Juan Cirial Mezcal
5. Burrito Fiestero’s Cenizo Mezcal