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Wildflower

Saturday: 12:00 – 10:00 PM
11-13 Brompton Street, Marrickville, NSW, 2204
Website
wildflowerbeer.com
Instagram
@wildflowerbeer

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 04 Jul 2023

By
David Matthews

With blended ales full of wild flavour, dishes from the people behind Sydney’s hottest bakery, and a spirit of generosity, Wildflower is a shining beacon on the inner-west brewery trail.

brewery at Wildflower
Why you goThe craft beer and brewery scene in Sydney over the past decade has exploded like a barrel bursting at the seams. The spread is far and wide, but if there’s a centre, a heart, it’s the inner west. Zoom in on an Inner West Ale Trail map and the highest concentration, by far, is in Marrickville. It’s here in the retooled warehouses of the former industrial suburb that you’ll find such celebrated names and brews as Stockade, Philter, Batch, Grifter, Sauce and Mixtape. All good breweries, but not one of them does anything like what Topher Boehm does at Wildflower. The Texas native’s trick has been digging into the Australian landscape to cultivate wild yeasts sourced from local plants – wild wattle or banksia, say, hence the name – then pairing them with local grains, hops and fruit grown regeneratively. Of course, none of this means all that much if the drinks don’t taste any good, but Wildflower is renowned more than anything for its flavourful brews – beers that tend to be floral, display refreshing acidity and focus on collaboration and experimentation, with plenty of variation week to week, season to season. Come to the cellar door, and all this is plain to see in a space that’s relaxing and welcoming, with a bistro-style menu from celebrated AP Bakery bringing it home.
Why you stayFrom the outside, Wildflower might seem a little underwhelming. But inside the corrugated-iron warehouse, it’s expansive and comfortable. Bouquets of dried native flowers line the walls, while half the room is given over to an enormous pyramid of barrels with batches and dates scrawled on the front. Stools and tables are rustic yet comfortable, a clothes rack holds merch, and shelves display a line-up of current releases and Wildflower favourites. Perch inside or out at a barrel, or nab a table for a bigger group, then front up to the counter and take your pick from what’s on tap or pour. Staff here are inner-west locals, and the punters are too, so good spirits abound, as do beards, Birkenstocks, dogs, kids and calf tattoos. It’s about tastings here, so drinks come as small pours, and if you hit the QR code, it’ll bring up the food menu, which offers ample snacks and bigger plates to make a meal. This is a place to settle in, adding a drink here, a snack there and whiling away the afternoon.
corrugated-iron warehouse at Wildflower
Beer at wildflower
What drink to order

First time? Hit the classics, like the Gold Blend, a soft, easy-drinking ale made with raw wheat, or the Hive Post Brood Blend, which is macerated with honeycomb sourced from the vertical hives at Malfroy’s Gold wild honey. The organic table beer, a refreshing, low-alcohol ale, is a cellar-door exclusive, always worth at least one glass, with refreshment the key word. 

If you’re looking past the classics, there’s plenty to keep you interested. Expect ales macerated with whole-bunch grapes from NSW winemakers, dark amber ales, or even a brew flavoured with Ebony Sun plums. Look out for annual releases, too, like Roadcider, made with foraged apples from the Southern Highlands and aged in house. Not a beer person? A few wines and a spread of alcohol-free drinks round out the offer, including a winning housemade cordial made with fragrant poorman’s orange.

What to pair it withFood has become more of a focus at Wildflower since the cellar door launched in 2018. Gaspar Tse, chef and founder of sauce brand Hotluck Club, recently ran an innovative menu of small bites out of the back kitchen before AP Bakery took over in May 2023, which feels like a perfect match. Head baker Dougal Muffet, like Topher Boehm, has an obsession with artisanal grains, and focuses on flavour and technique above all. Expect the same kind of favourites you’d find at AP’s Newtown outpost or its Carriageworks market stall, as well as a couple of pizza slices (go the pizza rosso, and add anchovies and the stracciatella, the Italian creamy fresh cheese), a beef and Wildflower Amber Ale pie, and cauliflower croquettes amped up with fermented hot sauce. The showstopper, though, is the hot honey bun stuffed with grilled Jersey cheese made by curd whisperer Colin Wood, who’s also responsible for the killer Basque cheesecake. In short? All killer.
Food and drinks at Wildflower
Drinks, merch and the indie food at Wildflower
Why we love itSome breweries feel too cool, others too gritty, others more like bars or pubs. Wildflower, though, feels just right. A place to roll up and feel welcomed, knowing the drinks – which consistently grace the tables of some of the country’s very best restaurants – are more than a little special, and just so easy to enjoy. Treasure it.
Don’t leave withoutTake something home. There’s the merch, the indie food mags and the hot sauce on offer, but really, you want to be all over the shelves to pick a bottle to keep in the fridge. Wildflower has made a signature of bottling its beer in 750ml wine bottles and wrapping them in artistic labels, so they’re just as good to drink as they are to display at home. Grab two.
Who to takeIf there’s one thing that makes the Inner West Ale Trail such a draw, it’s the welcoming spirit. Wildflower is no different. Littlies are welcome, as is your grandma, dogs can come along, and groups can book a table or two. And while planning ahead is never a bad idea, there’s no better feeling than rolling up on a whim with your best mate and perching at a barrel for the afternoon. Wild times.
Fine dine at Wildflower
Authour image
David MatthewsDavid Matthews is a bar and restaurant critic who has written for Australia’s leading food publications, including Gourmet Traveller and Good Food.
Tags
Drinks DirectoryNon-alc OptionsBrewery or DistilleryBrilliant beer listOutdoor areaMeal and a bevTakeawaysSydney – Inner WestWheelchair accessibleSydneyCasual catch-upGood for groupsVego Food OptionsPet friendlyFamily affair
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