NOW EXPERIENCING:Whisky Den

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 13 Sep 2022

By
Michael Harden


This CBD bar, a Tokyo-channelling clubhouse for whisky afficionados and the people who love them, has a laid-back ambience and unpretentious approach that belie its fine focus.

A glass of whisky at Whisky Den
Why you goSharing a block with Melbourne CBD’s darling-of-the-moment Gimlet, Whisky Den might initially appear to be the polar opposite of its glamour-puss neighbour. Its tiny proportions, comfortable but wilfully plain décor and a name that tells it like it is make for a humble, and hospitable, first impression. But while the laid-back and unpretentious way it goes about its business is intrinsic to Whisky Den’s charm, its approach to all things whisky is as fine and focused as any award-winning diner. An ever-changing list of whisky from around the globe – including a brilliant selection from Australian distillers – usually weighs in north of 350 bottles and ranges from the familiar, such as Jameson, to the exceedingly rare, like a single-malt number from Japanese distiller White Oak aged in sherry casks. How owner Joseph Kornides fits so many whiskies into such a tight space is a wonder in itself, but the knowledge about this collection and the way the staff seem genuinely invested in introducing you to something you’ll not only love but that’s also in your price range is equally impressive. You’re certainly not coming here for the glamour, but if you’re a whisky fan or starting out on your whisky journey this is a bar that’ll take you under its wing and point you in the direction of the good stuff.
Why you stayAnyone who has visited Tokyo’s alleyway bars will immediately get Whisky Den’s design influences. Though not as small as some of those minuscule Japanese watering holes, this is still one of Melbourne’s most compact drinking venues, with just five seats at the timber-topped bar and a couple of tiny tables at the front, a small mezzanine above and a clubhouse-like room with a banquette out the back. Space is tight, but it never feels cramped, perhaps thanks to the all-glass frontage, and by snaring a seat you feel as though you’ve been welcomed into an exclusive club, particularly with service that’s so friendly. Once you’re ensconced and reading the list arranged according to country of origin, you may feel transported to another time and place – one where you’ll likely want to spend a lot more time.
Whisky being prepared at Whisky Den
Types of whisky's displayed at Whisky Den
What drink to orderWhisky, obviously, but what type? Something rare and pricey to sniff and linger over, rolling the liquid gold across your palate as you contemplate all that has happened in the 35 years since it was barrelled, perhaps. Or maybe something from a place not immediately associated with whisky, such as an Amrut Fusion from India or a Taiwanese peated whisky from distillers Yushan Signature. There are many good options, but attention should also be paid to the page of whisky cocktails. Whisky Den’s list is a greatest-hits compilation that includes classics such as the Old Fashioned, Rusty Nail and Whisky Sour.
What to pair it withIn a space this tight there’s no room for a kitchen and Whisky Den’s snack list reflects that. It mostly hangs around the pretzels, chips and jerky end of the food spectrum, but those chasing something more substantial can look to the very good Ikkoryu Fukuoka Ramen right next door.
Why we love itWhile it’s not unusual for a whisky bar to offer other drinks, there’s something gracious about the way Whisky Den dedicates its opening page to those other options. It says something about the culture of a place where the opening gambit is to make those who have come to a place called Whisky Den comfortable in their lack of interest in whisky. It’s a compact list, with most space given over to beer and cider, but if you want a gin and tonic or a rum and coke, rest assured the spirit is quality and the drink mixed without judgement.
Whisky preparation at Whisky Den
A glass of whisky at Whisky Den
Regular’s tipAmong the seating options at Whisky Den, including the booth in the back room, a couch on the mezzanine, and stools in the front room, the most coveted are the seats at the bar, which deliver the best bang for your buck. The space is so intimate that you’ll probably end up chatting whisky with both the bartenders and your fellow travellers, undoubtedly learning something in the process.
Make it fancyFor those wanting to make it special, head to the back of the menu to the “rare” or “limited-edition” section where you might find a 30-year-old Glenfiddich at $149 for a 30ml pour or a Ben Nevis 1996 The Whisky Jury for $83. And check in with your bartender – there’s usually something special off-menu.
Variety of whisky's displayed at Whisky Den