Why you goIt looks like a pub – in fact, it used to be a pub – but it’s downplaying The Recreation to actually call it a pub. Housed in a heritage corner Victorian in leafy Fitzroy North, this one-time local tavern went up in the world when it was taken over in 2016 by a hospo trio with a background in fine dining. With food and wine smarts that are hard to fault, it’s a bit of a surprise package. It’s the kind of place you can drop by for a glass of wine and a plate of oysters at the communal bar table or settle in for the whole three courses in the dining room. The cluster of streetside seats tucked under the wrought-iron veranda, meanwhile, make a pretty attractive proposition for a glass of rosé when the sun’s shining. Whichever speed you choose, there’s a serious commitment to quality at play and a refreshing lack of pretension.