NOW EXPERIENCING:The Recreation

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 19 Apr 2023

By
Larissa Dubecki


This one-time local tavern in leafy Fitzroy North has come up in the world – it now delivers a food-and-wine package with a serious commitment to quality and a refreshing lack of pretension.

Why you goIt looks like a pub – in fact, it used to be a pub – but it’s downplaying The Recreation to actually call it a pub. Housed in a heritage corner Victorian in leafy Fitzroy North, this one-time local tavern went up in the world when it was taken over in 2016 by a hospo trio with a background in fine dining. With food and wine smarts that are hard to fault, it’s a bit of a surprise package. It’s the kind of place you can drop by for a glass of wine and a plate of oysters at the communal bar table or settle in for the whole three courses in the dining room. The cluster of streetside seats tucked under the wrought-iron veranda, meanwhile, make a pretty attractive proposition for a glass of rosé when the sun’s shining. Whichever speed you choose, there’s a serious commitment to quality at play and a refreshing lack of pretension. 
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Why you stayThere’s no team of backpackers waiting on tables here. Instead, you’ll find Joe Durrant and Mark Protheroe, whose service A-game used to be seen at Melbourne’s swankiest fine-diner, Grossi Florentino. They’re the kind of guys who know how to talk about wine without making anyone who doesn’t know their soave from their sauvignon blanc feel the lesser for it. They’ll find the right drop, and the right price, from their impressive list with minimum fuss and maximum charm. Add a well-drilled team who know their stuff and food that really nails the “smart bistro” brief and it's little wonder The Rec has become a locals’ favourite as well as attracting wine nerds from further afield.
What drink to orderThe wine list isn’t super-long, but everything counts within its small-producer focus. It’s Old World and New, old-style and new-wave, with biodynamic and funkier drops lurking among the classics. Victorian heroes such as Bindi and Savaterre are well represented, Patrick Sullivan flies the flag for all things natural and there’s a good showing of Barolo, Barbaresco and other food-friendly Italian reds. It’s also a place to explore new drinks frontiers such as the Picon Bière, an orange-based bitter apéritif designed to add to a clean, crisp lager like James Boag’s for a perfect sunny-day refresher, or mulled wine, which is perfect on a cloudy day. There’s no cocktail list, but the team will whip up a classic without fuss. And the retro drinks cart rolled around at the digestif end of proceedings is a winner – lately it has been a celebration of specialist rum such as Diplomático and Flor de Cana, which you can enjoy with an espresso and a chocolate truffle in a perfect meal-ending trifecta. 
What to pair it withChef Steven Nelson, who’s also an owner, is behind a smart Euro-leaning menu that always has an eye on wine friendliness. That could mean a killer starter of smoked-eel doughnuts with crème fraîche and avruga caviar – like France’s puffy gougères on a seaside holiday – or charry octopus bedded down with soft, spicy Calabrian ’nduja salami and warrigal greens. There’s real elegance to a poached snapper fillet in velvety fish velouté sauce, while a plate of slippery tagliatelle pasta with pine mushrooms, hazelnuts and brown butter will have you eyeing off those Italian reds on the list.
Regular’s tipHave a special bottle at home? BYO corkage is $25, and the food is good enough to justify cracking that bottle of Bordeaux from your cellar.
Don’t leave withoutDid we mention the bottle shop? That fabulous global and local list can be bought to enjoy at home – or in the Edinburgh Gardens a block to the north-west where the candy-pink Stuart Proud rosé is a picnic fixture.