NOW EXPERIENCING:The Old Fitzroy Hotel

Read time 4 Mins

Posted 14 Oct 2022

By
Matty Hirsch


A vintage local with truckloads of character, The Old Fitz offers a whole lot more than meets the eye, with unexpected depth to the drinks lists and a deft take on pub dining.

The Old Fitzroy Hotel
Why you goVintage pubs often come with their own distinctive brand of charm. Yet, even in a city boasting a fair share of century-old alehouses, The Old Fitz stands out as something special. Founded in 1860, it’s one of Sydney’s oldest watering holes and, unlike others of its kind, it feels like a proper local rather than a tourist attraction. Over the course of its long life, the venue has meant many things to many people. Some may remember it as the corner pub that helped fuel the popularity of laksa in the noughties. Others know it as the home of Australia’s only pub theatre, built in the basement in 1997. In more recent years, a new generation has come to embrace it as a place to enjoy some of the city’s most exciting cooking, thanks to the talents of young chefs like Nicholas Hill and Anna Ugarte-Carral who have passed through the kitchen. But no matter whether you rock up for a feed, a show or an ice-cold schooner, you always leave with a richer appreciation for the particular role pubs play in Australian life.
Why you stayThe Old Fitz has the sort of warm, lived-in ambience that can only come with a hundred-plus years of operation. All the classic pub trimmings are here in full force, from the patterned crimson carpet and pressed metal ceilings to the exposed brick, creaky stairs and crackling open fire. Happy hour, from 4:00pm-6:00pm on weekdays, is a convincing reason to stick around for a while, as is Wednesday night trivia, which almost always books out. But mostly it’s the cast of bohemian regulars – including artists, playwrights and colourful Kings Cross personalities and their pets – that make an innings at this beloved institution such a good time, all the time.
The Old Fitzroy Hotel, best restaurant of Australia
Great open seating arrangement at The Old Fitz
What drink to orderFew pubs can lay claim to a span of drinks as all-encompassing as The Old Fitz’s. Beer is an obvious starting point, and the rotating taps do a mighty fine job of pleasing all comers, from VB-swilling purists to craft devotees seeking sours and stouts from local legends such as Yulli’s Brews, Young Henrys and The Grifter Brewing Co. For those aiming to dig deeper, there’s even a shortlist of hard-to-find Belgian lambics. Wines, meanwhile, look beyond the obvious and lean towards the natural end, without sacrificing approachability. And while you could be forgiven for skipping over the cocktails at most other pubs, the dedicated list of Spritzes, Slushies and classics might make you think twice.
What to pair it withThe kitchen is now headed up by young gun Toby Stansfield (formerly of Monopole and Yellow), who takes a refined yet unpretentious and loosely European approach to pub dining. Snacks like Sydney rock oysters with a pickle dressing or LP’s Quality Meats cured sausage with chilli honey feature on the bar menu, along with a fancy chicken roll of confit rooster meat smothered in roast-chicken mayo and gravy. Upstairs in the cosy, white-clothed confines of the dining room, Bistro Fitz, expect the likes of market fish, house-made pasta and roasted spatchcock. If there’s one dish here that rules them all it’s the steak frites – perfectly cooked sirloin smothered in creamy Diane sauce with skin-on chips generously seasoned with seaweed salt and white pepper. Thankfully, the full menu is available on both levels.
Why we love itSo often, historic pubs like this are overhauled and stripped of character or neglected until they fall into a state of disrepair. Despite several changes of hands, The Old Fitz has never felt more relevant – it wears its age proudly and remains deeply woven into the fabric of the local community. There’s no better proof than the “locals’ corner” – a table by the fire reserved for the nearby residents who’ve been frequenting the pub for decades.
Closeup view of man enjoying food and drinks at The Old Fitz
Beautifull interior of The Old Fitzory Hotel
Make it fancyLow-intervention wine fans looking to lash out will find more than a handful of ways to do so on the cellar list that’s available by request. Whether it’s back-vintage grower Champagne, big names in marquee regions like Burgundy and the Rhône Valley or cult heroes from the Jura in France, this single-page selection packs some serious punch.
Who to takeA quick look around will make it clear that The Old Fitz really is a one-size-fits-all operation – as much a second home for colourful locals and seasoned regulars as it is a destination for theatre-goers, diners and just about everyone in between. It really is a public house in the truest sense, where everyone is welcome.