Pouring hyper-local craft beers and dishing up a menu of classic hits for a loyal clientele, the community-minded Henson could be a contender for best neighbourhood pub in Sydney.
Everyone has a favourite bit of the Henson. Got a dog or kids? You’ll want the leafy courtyard out the back where everyone has a caramel-coloured “oodle” doggo of some description at their feet and there’s a separate kids’ play area that’s close enough to see, but far enough away that you can enjoy your drink in peace.
Big group? Inside in front of the bar there are plenty of long wooden tables that should fit everyone as well as comfy booths designed for four to six.
The front bar retains its old-man vibes, with its original beer posters and neighbourhood photos, pool table and bar, and stool seating around the room. Head here if you’re having a catch-up beer, for Wednesday-night trivia or to watch a big footy match.
Marrickville is Sydney’s home of craft beer – if you walk around the suburb you’ll hit a warehouse brewery every kilometre or so, especially in the industrial centre. The Henson, which opened as a new and improved local in 2013, predated most of them, but now it has the lot on tap or canned, including Batch, Grifter and Philter. You might kick off a West Side Story-style intra-suburb face-off if any locals hear you order these, but, if you must, you could also try something from the surrounding neighbourhoods like Alexandria’s Yulli’s Brews or Newtown’s Young Henrys.
The wine list is also pretty ace, a curious and ever-changing collection from Australia and New Zealand with an emphasis on natural and low-intervention drops.
The food at the Henson was never, ever an afterthought. When the original kitchen opened in 2013 it was staffed by an almost entirely Indonesian team and they brought that energy to the menu from day one: there’d always be a gado-gado stir-fry, nasi goreng fried rice and the famous “dirty bird” that’s still there today, a spice-rubbed and grilled quarter chicken served with sambal-chilli sauce, slaw and turmeric rice. The South East Asian vibe has never left the menu, sharing space more or less equally with more traditional Euro-style pub hits such as burgers, steaks and wings.
Oh, and you have to put the house-made “rooster salt” – it’s over on the condiment station to the left of the bar – on your chips. It’s un-Australian not to season your chips with chicken salt (don’t at me).
