NOW EXPERIENCING:Terrarium

Read time 3 Mins

Posted 10 Jan 2024

By
Max Veenhuyzen


Filled with greenery and fine spirits, this CBD cocktail bar and rooftop terrace goes big on plant-based fun, delivering sharp drinks and meaningful hospitality with a flourish.

Inside Perth CBD bar Terrarium
Why you goTerrarium is very much a case of if you know, you know. If you know, you know that this two-storey plant-filled glasshouse – hence the name – and rooftop terrace is hidden down a side street off St Georges Terrace, the beating heart of Perth’s business world. You’ll also know that while everyone will drink well here, those with a thirst for cocktails and spirits will be especially chuffed. And you’ll know that owners Verity Coles and David Stucken and their team love playing the role of welcoming, fun-loving hosts. It’s a style of hospitality that makes Terrarium work for after-work drinks as well as weekend frivolity, plus everything in between.
Why you stayWhile the weekday crowd features its share of suits and power-dressers, Terrarium is more concerned with pleasure than business. You enter at street level, ascend a switchback staircase, wave at the chefs in the open kitchen, and then emerge in a glass-encased chamber filled with sound, revellers, plant-life and a serious collection of rare and top-shelf spirits. When the sun’s out, the fun also spills out onto the rooftop terrace. Energy levels are high, not least behind the bar where fast-moving bartenders mix the classics and creative house drinks. Their technique is sharp, their glasses are primed for social-media close-ups, and they’re committed to keeping the party going.
The rooftop area at Perth's Terrarium
One of many cocktails served up at Terrarium
What drink to orderDavid cut his teeth at key cocktail venues around Perth and it shows in a drinks menu teeming with bartender craft (plus frequent references to botany and plants in general). The Red Dahlia uses absinthe and bittersweet amaro liqueur to put a cool twist on the classic Manhattan, while the house Martini is cut with coconut water and finished with a woodsy native-thyme oil. The refreshing rum-fuelled Cyclone, meanwhile, is a potent homage to the glories of tiki. A far-reaching spread of whiskies, rums and gins are on hand for those who enjoy their spirits neat, while a handy selection of Australian wines rounds things off.
What to pair it withTackling a drinks list this formidable on an empty stomach would be unwise. Instead, consider the kitchen’s concise menu of bar-snack favourites to keep your night out on an even keel. While the likes of pappardelle with beef ragù work for solo diners, most orders work best split with friends (hello platters of cheese and cured meats). Five-spiced fried chicken and arancini risotto balls studded with spicy chorizo sausage equal tasty ballast, while bruschetta toast with pumpkin and goat’s cheese, crisp chickpea salads and juniper-perfumed Negroni olives have your veg options covered.
Terrarium serves up a range of great share plates
The spirits selection at Terrarium in Perth
Regular’s tipKeen to learn more about the wide world of spirits? Terrarium is a fine classroom. At the front of the menu is a QR code that brings up the bar’s vast spirits list on your phone. In addition to being an up-to-the-minute snapshot of what’s in stock, this menu also includes extra information to help your sipping dollar go further. These bonuses include recommended garnishes and flavour profiles for each gin, details of the casks and barrels whiskies are aged in, and the base ingredients of every vodka. And did we mention that David is the state manager for the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, one of the world’s largest whisky clubs?
Make it fancyAs a result of David’s role in that whisky club, as one of the society’s partner bars, Terrarium has access to rare bottlings of single-cask, unfiltered whiskies – often from now-shuttered distilleries – that showcase the spirit’s diversity and character. David and co love sharing the stories of these idiosyncratic whiskies almost as much as they enjoy pouring them. The bar’s main collection is also studded with other whisky treasures including increasingly hard-to-find Japanese bottles, limited-edition Scotches and curios from Australia’s own emerging whisky scene. These rare whiskies aren’t cheap, but such is the cost of history.
Blue banquettes at Terrarium in Perth
Who to takeConsidering Terrarium’s address in white-collar heartland, it’s no surprise that Perth’s business set maintain a constant presence at the bar. Location is one thing, though; delivering sharp drinks and meaningful hospitality is another. Thankfully, Terrarium nails this trifecta and its appeal extends beyond the Terrace. Whether you visit with a crew or drop in solo – perhaps the best course of action if you’re planning on spending a lot of time swotting up on the spirits menu – Terrarium’s brand of plant-based fun is all too easy to like.