NOW EXPERIENCING:Pipers of Penola

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Posted 02 Jun 2023

By
Nick Ryan


A standout wine-region restaurant that celebrates the great bottles produced locally, and serves them alongside deeply considered dishes that work beautifully with what’s in the glass.

Ambience at Pipers of Penola
Why you goPipers sits at the southern end of Coonawarra’s famed terra rossa, aka red earth, vineyard strip, but it’s long been close to the region’s heart. Chef Simon Bowen, from the famed winemaking family just down the road, and his wife Erika have created a warm and inviting atmosphere in their beautifully restored former church. Their emphasis on using the best regional produce and exceptional local wines showcases the flavours of Coonawarra. This is a restaurant that truly understands the role of a wine-region restaurant by celebrating the great bottles produced locally, putting them into broader context by surrounding them with cleverly chosen examples from further afield and serving them alongside deeply considered dishes that work beautifully with what’s in the glass.
Why you stay

When you hear it said that Penola is an especially blessed little town, you may think that’s because it was once home to Australia’s only canonised saint, Mary MacKillop. That’s partly true, but the town’s greatest blessing can be found in the old weatherboard church that now houses Pipers of Penola.

This place is an institution for a reason, consistently delivering on the promise of what a great wine-region restaurant should be. Simon Bowen’s cooking is defined by well-honed technique and a dedication to depth of flavour, always with an eye on how each component in a dish will come together as a harmonious partner to the wines pulled up from the cellar. When you travel to a place specifically to immerse yourself in its food and wine culture, you do so in the hope of finding places like this.

 

What drink to order

It’s got to be cabernet, doesn’t it? The 12-mile, cigar-shaped strip of red dirt running to the north of Penola produces some of the world’s most celebrated cabernet sauvignon, most of it produced by chef Simon Bowen’s friends or family. All the great Coonawarra names are represented here, many of them across multiple vintages, giving diners the opportunity to experience Coonawarra cabernet’s great capacity for ageing.

Another feature is the enviable fortified list. It has an incredible selection of fortified wines available by the glass, which is a rare treat in any restaurant. If you're a fan of port, muscat or sherry, you won't want to miss the chance to try some of the unique and interesting fortified wines on offer.

Drinks at Pipers of Penola
Food at Pipers of Penola
What to pair it withCabernet sauvignon, particularly in its mint-scented, cassis-drenched Coonawarra incarnation, is a wine almost supernaturally suited to great lamb dishes, and Simon Bowen has always found a spot on his ever-evolving menus for this most magical of matches. The opportunity to pair this most cabernet-friendly of proteins, whether slow-roasted, braised or grilled, with one of Australia’s classic wine styles should not be missed.
Why we love itIf you really want to gauge the quality of a wine-region restaurant, you just have to look around to see how many winemakers are taking up other tables. A ratio of 25 per cent is a good sign; get towards 50 per cent and you’re approaching legend status. There are some nights at Pipers when that figure gets dangerously close to 100 per cent. If that’s not a vote of confidence in what Simon and Erika Bowen are doing here, then we don’t know what is.
Regular’s tipSunday mornings in small towns can be a bit barren for those who have had Saturday nights a little larger than wisdom would advise. The foggy-headed travellers who find themselves in Penola on a Sunday morning, however, need to get themselves to Pipers as quick as they can. Here they’ll find the best breakfast for miles around. Great coffee, brilliant pastries and several ways to avail themselves of the kind of healing only smoked and salted pork products can provide. This is Sunday Salvation of the highest order.
Make it fancyWhile the Pipers wine list naturally goes long on Coonawarra cabernet, it also has a tight and cleverly constructed section devoted to wines from the variety’s spiritual home, Bordeaux in France. With great glassware on offer, and knowledgeable advice close at hand, why not try a bit of bilateral comparison and get a bottle from each region and debate their relative virtues over the course of a great dinner?