Why you stayIt feels like a small victory just finding Léonie Upstairs. There’s no sign, so look for the inevitable queue of people lining up for ice-cream and bento boxes at street-level Hareruya Pantry. Inside Hareruya is a black metal door, behind which you’ll find the glossy staircase that leads to Léonie. At the top of the stairs, to the right and behind sheer curtains, there’s the bar overlooking leafy Lincoln Square, which mainly caters to walk-ins. To the left is the slightly more formal dining room, with both bar and banquette seating. The attention paid to the custom-made joinery – a nail-free artisan thing of wonder – is matched by the superb glassware and crockery. The equally meticulous food leads with temaki sushi, but also includes small treasures like chawanmushi, a savoury egg custard studded with seafood, and fried chicken wings that have been boned and stuffed. Then it’s just a matter of embarking on a sake journey that can include carefully considered flights, perhaps organised by brewing techniques, brewery or region, and run the gamut from sweet and fruity to funky and intense.
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